Friday, 13 January 2012

Delhi!!!

Here comes the first long one...
Where to start... Ok, how about with now... just went for my first walk in Paharganj along Main Bazaar road (backpacker district I'm staying in for a few nights). Left hostel around 8am, walked up and down the road for a half hour, chatted with a friendly man from Nepal, and found an internet cafe. Cheap cheap! Only 30rs (less than a dollar) for an hour. Ok, time to backtrack since last post...
Second flight went smoothly, though not quite as pleasant as the first. I think it gave me my first taste of India... smelled like a lack of deodorant, and passengers were, well, interesting. Had a window seat this time with a rather dull neighbor to my left (missed my previous plane buddy!) As I was about to settle into my seat, I noticed a bare protruding foot from the seat behind which was propped on my arm rest. Hmmm. The man who belonged to the foot was often rude to the flight attendent, who was evidently getting a little annoyed. He went on to drink a few whiskeys, then burped and sneezed loudly, kicked the back of my chair a few times, and finally snored loudly and went to sleep for the remainder of the flight. Great on-flight meal again: palaak paneer (my favorite) with masala curry vegetables.
I was overcome with excitement as the first Delhi lights appeared below, and got through baggage claim and customs pretty quickly before finding my airport pickup at the exit door (THANK YOU JessD for convincing me to get one! I would have been quite stressed without it!) But the stress appeared anyway... Scraggly driver in a very sketchy tiny car, only half a seatbelt (belt part but no clip... saw the driver just pull his belt around his body, so I did the same), soon realized there were no headlights (4am, dark), and that several other vehicles were also mere lightless shadows on the road. It was only about 7 degrees celcius and my window was slightly open, so I reached for the handle to close it, but it just turned loosely without affecting the window! I wasn't really surprised, but giggled to myself. Driver was kind and pointed out a few landmarks along the way, but when he wasn't focused on them, he looked like he was about to fall asleep (I could see his eyes in the rearview mirror, and every time he blinked, I was afraid they wouldn't re-open!) Pretty terrified we would crash, but he managed to stay awake a get me safely to my hostel. When the car stopped, I was sure there had been a mistake. This could not be where I was staying. It was the most grimy, run-down, garbage-filled, animal-swarmed road I had ever seen. But there it was, the sign for my hostel. So I gave the driver his baksheesh (tip) and he brought my bag to the front door, then used his car key to knock loudly on the glass door, through which I could see the 2 receptionists sleeping under blankets on the floor. After a few key bangs, they reluctantly got up and let me in.
Decent room, heavy blanket on the bed (good thing, because I was pretty frozen). Didn't do much before getting ready for bed, pretty exhausted. Slept in leggings, socks, hoodie, wrapped in sleeping bag and covered in heavy blanket, which I pulled over my head for heat, but also for blocking the bit of light and sound. Comfy mattress, but useless pillows. Huge, hard bricks.
Took me at least an hour to fall asleep depite my exhaustion. Went to bed around 5am, so everyone else outside was slowly beggining the day. Construction sounds, loud talking, incessant honking, and what sounded like cow bells that rang for what seemed like an hour. Somehow, I finally managed to fall asleep. When I woke up, I could tell (through my closed blinds) that it wasn't very light out. I checked the time: 6pm! I slept all day! I lay in bed half an hour just listening to the sounds of Delhi before mustering enough coutage to even look outside. When I finally peered through window, it looked slightly better than it did in the dark last night. But still a dump. Sat on my bed staring out the window for half an hour, taking in the sights and sounds (smells actually not bad so far). Saw a near scooter crash with a toddler sitting at the front. But everything looks like a near crash on these roads. Circulation is absolute chaos, but they always seem to get where they want to go safely.
(A monk just sat down at the computer next to me and is checking his facebook!!)
After my window peering, I mustered up enough courage to leave my room and go down to reception for a few questions. But went no further. It was dark already and I decided to munch on leftover plane food for dinner (granola bar, 2 crackers, cheese, and a godiva chocolate for dessert). After dinner, I passed time by re-organizing my very quickly and poorly bags. Much better now, much more room, and much more logic! Wrote in my journal, took my first pictures inside my room, watched some Hindi and English shows on my little cable TV, and ended the night with yoga at 11pm. Glad I brought my mat and yoga music on my ipod! Bed around midnight, after having been up for only 6 hours, but tired enough to sleep (same pj get-up as last night, plus eye-mask and earplugs courtesy of Qatar airways). Again, took about an hour to fall asleep. When I woke up it was still dark, checked time, 3am, wide awake. Hmmm. Tried falling back asleep, but couldn't. Body clock still a little off. So I sat up, read, watched tv (Liv, saw commercial for Indian Survivor!). Under the blanket, but cold hands. Must buy mits. Anxiously waited for sunlight, which finally appeared around 7am. Snapped my first few outdoor shots from my room window, observed the sights below again, then got ready for my first walk outside. Brushed up on a few basic Hindi words, checked the Paharganj map, had a Lindt chocolate for breakfast, and here I am, after my first 20 minute walk. Everyone very kind so far, friendly hellos and not too pushy. Though I did get spit on a few times (not intentionally, but people spit non-stop and you'll just walk into the liquid's trajectory if not careful! Dodged a few vehicles by mere inches; good thing they honk!
Ok, time for a real breakfast now!     

7 comments:

  1. OMG!! Apart from the 7 degree celcius indicator on the thermometer, thank you for taking me back in time!! I can see you there if I close my eyes :) Which hostel are you in? It's so dirty huh?! But so nice in the day! I was too amazed about the amount of Indian American type tv shows!!
    You made me laugh! Enjoy your time getting lost in the none sense streets of Delhi! And if you can go to Connaught place it's quite a trip to go to the movie theater!!
    I will look forward your new blogpost! xxx

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  2. Wow! Thank you for the vivid flashback. Glad you made it safely and looking forward to the next post. Namaste and all that ; )

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  3. Oh Erika, you write so funny. Ever thought of publishing your travel diaries?
    When you told me, before leaving, that your hostel was 9$ a night, I had my doubts about where it would be located... and I can't believe you have already watched so much TV.
    Anyway, I look forward to more reports on how people are over there. I mean how can they be at the same time so dirty, friendly, reckless and spiritual?
    Please keep on putting a few hindi words in your reports and I will learn them that way.
    Sois prudente,
    papa

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  4. Welcome to my Motherland Erica!

    HAPPY MAKAR SANKRANTI !


    On 13 and 14th January are a hervest festival known as "Makar sankranti" in U.P, "Lohiri"in Punjab "Onam" in Madras

    Just in Punjab they do "Bhangra Dance" in front of bonne fire

    January is be the cooldest month Feb. first week the temp will start increasing.
    i HAVE SENT MESSAGES TO MY RELATIVE IN iNDIA TO BE YOUR FRIEND ON FACEBBO AND GIVE YOU THEIR PHONE NUMBERS AND CITY. 3 ARE IN nEW DELHI

    Khush Raho
    Meera Jee

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    1. Thank you so much for your family contacts Meera! They have added me on facebook and we are now in touch. I am happy to have reliable contacts in case I need anything.
      Namaste, Erika :)

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  5. Erika! We missed you last night at my birthday party and again today at the climbing gym!

    Brave lady, be careful and enjoy each and every minute of your adventure!!!

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  6. hahahahahaha!! oh wow.. you made me laugh, and you made me want to take off backpacking again!!
    have fun, make friends, and be safe! :-)

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