Last two days in the City of Joy

On the road to recovery, still not 100%.

Didn't end up having a meal after my last post, just grabbed a small bag of plain chips and a bottle of water. Went down well, felt a little bit of appetite. Went back to the Fairlawn Hotel outdoor lobby for the Thursday night display and sale of Calcutta Rescue handmade products. Picked up a few more fair-trade, recycled bags, and the lady thanked me for coming back. I smiled and told her it was a great organization and the bags were very good quality. Made my way back to Galaxy for a somewhat refreshing shower - even with only the cold tap turned on, the water is merely cool. Didn't set my alarm for the next morning, as I still wasn't feeling great, and had very little energy.

I was disappointed not to be able to go in for my last day, but glad I had at least made it once to both centers so I could see and experience them. I'm sure I'll be back on another trip. Slept in then went to a little cafe/shop that again sells hand-made products to support street kids. Bought a couple notebooks, then had some proper food - muesli, fruit and curd was all I could handle. Went home, relaxed, and despite feeling tired and weak, planned out my last afternoon and evening in Kokata. There were still a few things I really wanted to do and see. Since most of the people I've met here are other volunteers and were at work, I'd be on my own for my little adventure. First, I went to Blue Sky and sipped a Pepsi in the AC for 45 minutes. After that, I felt ready to go.

I walked about 5 minutes to the Park Street metro station, trying out the Calcutta tube for the first time. It would save me about a 20 minute walk down the sunny and busy Chowringee Road. The train itself was pretty old and rickety, but the platforms were clean and nice. Paid my 4 rupee (8 cent) charge for a one-stop ride, getting off at Maidan station. Maidan is the name of the park that is the pride and joy of Calcutta, like Central Park is to New York. It is huge, home to Eden Gardens (where I went for the cricket match), soccer fields, and golf clubs. Eden is at the north end, I was now near the south end. Walked through the park a little before making my way down Shakespeare street to my first destination: Aurobindo Bhavan. It is a center dedicated to Sri Aurobindo, who was an Indian nationalist, freedom fighter, philosopher, yogi, guru and poet. I had heard the name a few times since being in India. I walked around the beautiful garden area, stopped by the tomb and statue, then entered the small, quaint bookstore. A very friendly shopkeeper greeted me, asking, after seeing me wipe the sweat from my face with my shawl (which is kleenex-thin, but feels like a fur coat in this heat - I wear it to be respectfully covered), why I was in Calcutta in the summer. I smiled and shrugged. 20 minutes later, I walked out with 15 new books. And I got a 10% teacher discount! (Didn't mention to him that I quite my job.) Most of the books were just small paper booklets, so it won't be too tragic for my bags.

Next destination: St-Pauls Cathedral. On the way, I passed the Indira Gandhi statue (no relation to Gandhi, former Prime Minister of India) and the Calcutta Planetarium. Then St-Paul's was before me, a stunning white Gothic Cathedral. I went in, walked around, then sat on a bench under a fan to rest and cool off a little. Back out for my third and final destination: Victoria Memorial. It was incredible. If one was dropped in front of it, not knowing where they were, they might mistake it for the Taj Mahal (though I may take that back after having been to the Taj). A beautiful, huge, marble building dedicated to Queen Victoria. Walked around, took lots of photos with the gorgeous post sunset sky as a backdrop, then sat by the water to rest again. Ten minutes later, the guards frantically started blowing their whistles to get everyone off the premises. It was 6pm, closing time. I had read about a recommended sound and light show in my guidebook, which took place at 7:45. They were clearing the grounds to prepare for the Bengali showing at 6:45. Bought my 20 rupee (40 cent) ticket and headed back into Maidan Park to pass time. It was dark by then, so I found a well lit bench area to sit and read. Stomach cramps were on-and-off all afternoon, and I was becoming quite desperate for a bathroom. Walked over to the park guards, who pointed me in the direction of "luxurious" public "toilets". Despite the filth and stench, I felt much better after. Luckily I had toilet paper and Purel in my bag. On my way out, I heard Indian music, followed the sound, and found a free live concert in the park, where many people were seated on chairs or on the grass. I joined them, listened for a while, took some videos of the talented singers and musicians, then went back to a bench for a bit more reading. It was then time to head to the VM gate for the show. The Bengali version was just finishing, so I waited at the gate. There was no one else there waiting. When the Bengali show ended and I walked in, the guard told me I was the only one who had purchased a ticket for the English show that night. I laughed and asked if it was safe for me to go anyway. He assured me that it was. All entrances to the site are guarded, and there would be a site worker near me the whole time. I said ok, and walked to the building. There were a few rows of plastic chairs set up, I got a front row seat. The worker then removed the other rows, putting the chairs away for night. I got comfortable, had a cookie and some water, then watched a great show in a magical setting. There was an introductory video projection on a screen to the left, followed by surround sound and lights that accompanied the narration of Calcutta's past. Different parts of the VM lit up at various times, creating a beautiful scene. Video came on at various times throughout. The Howrah Bridge was magnificently lit up in the distance to the right. It was a pretty indescribable feeling, being there on my own, in the sprawling grounds of the Victoria Memorial, the majestic building in front of me, and the history of this great city being projected and narrated for my eyes and ears only. What a perfect way to spend my last night in Calcutta. A guard escorted me out when the show ended, I thanked him for letting the show go on just for me, and walked 10 minutes to Maidan metro station. As I walked, I was humming the "I Love Calcutta" theme song from the presentation, and Kolkata loved me back, providing me with a safe trip home. Went one stop north to Park Street on the metro, and walked five minutes from there to Galaxy. Home at 9, used the toilet, went out for quick internet, then back for shower and bed.

Up at 10 this morning, feel a bit better but cramps and diarrhea haven't stopped. Went to the medical store just down the road and showed the clerk the empty packets (which I had kept in my first aid pouch for this purpose exactly) of the pre, pro, and antibiotics that I had taken in Rishikesh when I was sick. He had what I needed, and I was able to get them without a prescription. Hopefully they will start to take effect before I get on the overnight train to Varanasi tonight. Had a small but real meal (veg and cheese wrap) which felt pretty good, and then, despite still feeling weak, headed off to the last destination on my list: the Park Street Cemetery which I had just missed last Sunday. Considered getting a tuk-tuk there, but ended up walking the 30 minutes in the heat. Turned out to be the most amazing cemetery I've ever seen, a huge tree-filled area with enormous tomb stones over the bodies of India's British colonial past. Walked around for about 15 minutes, wanted to stay longer, but again had to find a toilet. Walked back along Park Street until I got to Cafe Coffee Day, feeling very faint along the way, hardly able to hold my head up or walk in a straight line. I knew this place would have decent bathrooms and AC. Both felt great. Sat down for a refreshing blue slush that somewhat brought me back to life, before heading out into the streets again for the final stretch of walk home. 

It's now 4:30, my train is at 7:30. Might go check out the New Market just a block over - the only thing on my list that I've yet to do - then relax in an AC resto before getting a tuk-tuk to the train station. Next post from Varanasi, where it's even hotter that here! (Booked myself a nice AC room for the first two nights.)

Love is the only reality and it is not a mere sentiment.  It is the ultimate truth that lies at the heart of creation.

-Sri Aurobindo