Varanasi to Delhi

Well, I'm right back where I started. Same city, same street, same hotel... slightly different girl. Definitely walking the streets more confidently than when I first arrived! Just had lunch at the German Bakery, the resto at which I had my only actual meal at here in 3 days in January. Backtrack...


Saturday night I had my best Indian pizza yet at the nice Hotel Surya resto, a paneer tikka chef's specialty. Brought leftovers back to my room, ate them while watching a movie, then did my night reiki session and went to bed. And in the cool comfort of my room, I finally broke the many days streak of taking 2-3 hours to fall asleep. 


Packed, read and relaxed till 12pm checkout the next day, staying in my AC for as long as I could. Then it was off to internet for more photo-blogging, and over to the pool for reading, swimming, and sipping a delicious chai tea martini. On my way out, I stopped at the resto for a dessert I saw on the menu and wanted the night before, but was too full from the pizza: freshly-made toffee-sesame dipped apple cubes with a scoop of vanilla ice-cream... mmmmm! It was as good as it sounds :) Got changed, posted one more photo-blog, then shared a taxi to the train station with a Belgian girl who was also getting a train at the same time. (She was doing a one-year international study program, 4 months in Belgium, 4 in India and she was off to the last 4 in New York!) Walked up and down long flights of stairs with all my luggage, to the furthest platform in the station to get on my train. I had the upper bunk again on the same side as usual, and this time the little girl who was assigned the lower bunk (whose family was just across the aisle), offered it to me since I had so many bags. She was very sweet and spoke good English (her parents spoke none), and after making sure she didn't mind the upper bunk, I accepted her offer. My first lower bunk for my last overnighter :) Good thing it started positively because the rest wasn't so great. Read a bit and had some snacks, then prepared my bedding and lay down. The train had been swaying quite strongly since the beginning, but I felt it more when I was lying down. And I  also realized how hard the "bed" was. Like a plank. The pillow-case was damp and smelled moldy. When I lay on my back, the aggressive side-to-side rocking of the train was nauseating and nearly threw me right off the bunk. When I lay on my side, I could balance a bit better, but after a few minutes my hip and rib bones were in pain from the solid mattress. The AC would go on and off, and when it did, my skin would go from icy-cold to sweaty within minutes. People around me snored, coughed and farted. Result: I got even less sleep than the 3 hours on the way to Varanasi. But I'm glad I continued reading Life of Pi, because no matter what situation I find myself in, I now always compare it to Pi Patel's predicament, and feel a little comforted. So I lay there, rocking not-so-gently  side-to-side, listening to The Best of Leonard Cohen, and watching the half moon out the window for hours, noticing it inching across the sky, and getting brighter and brighter as the sky grew darker and as the train lights went out one by one.


Woke from one of my short dozes at 6am and sat up. Undid the bedding, had a sip of leftover 7up from last night, got a chai as the train wallah came by, and read. Watched the kids goof around across the aisle, snapped a few pics of them, and 5 hours later, we were in Delhi. Got a tuk-tuk and saw some of Delhi by day for the first time. (In January, I stuck to just the street my hostel was on until going to Rishikesh.) Checked into my room, had a shower, and headed out for lunch.


Papa arrives in two days, and I don't want to do too much sight-seeing without him, so you can expect more photo-blogs shortly :) 


For now, it's back to my room for a nap... my meager sleep is catching up to me.    

Reiki Certified & Hotel Surya

Well, I am now officially certified as a Reiki healer! I went for my first practice yesterday evening, after which my guru signed the certificate and handed it over to me. The woman I practiced on (his wife?) thanked me and told me I had very powerful energies in my hands... but I imagine she says that to all students who practice on her for the first time.  Next week it will be time to practice on papa while he's here, then I'll get an appointment book for practicing on you guys at home! I'm supposed to do a session on myself morning and night for 21 days, and also 30 days of distance healing... good thing I'm unemployed at the moment! After 200 or so treatments, I can go for my master level... maybe while I'm back here next year! Stopped one last time for a delicious salad and mint iced-tea at Brown Bread Bakery, then headed home for an early night of reading and reiki.


To celebrate my new accomplishment, I booked my last night in Varanasi at Hotel Surya (http://www.hotelsuryavns.com), a beautiful building which was originally a Nepali king's palace, built in 1818, and which is away from the frenzy of the old city. It comes equipped with a great restaurant lovely pool and terrace. I headed there almost immediately when I arrived, needing refreshment after walking 15 minutes with my ridiculous amount of luggage through the narrow old city lanes up to the main intersection where I could get an auto-rickshaw. (I vowed in a previous blog not to add any weight to my bags in Varanasi, and what I bought at Open Hand Cafe weighs less than the ashes I dispersed, so I actually left a tiny bit lighter than I arrived.) Pool was great, perfect temperature, even felt a tad chilly in the nice breeze when I got out. Varanasi, like Kolkata, seems to have gotten hotter by the day during my visits. And here, like in K, even the locals are complaining about the heat, still wondering why tourists come at this time of year. (The glacier trek up north with Papa will be fabulous -  bring on the ice!) Speaking of cold, the AC in my room works so well that I was actually able to have a hot shower - forgot what those feel like, and how much I like them!
Relaxing at Surya today and tomorrow, reading, swimming and reiki-ing, before getting aboard my last (yay!) overnight train to Delhi tomorrow night. Once there, I putz around for 2 days, then greet papa at the airport :)


Still loving India, happily and gratefully embracing all the amazing opportunities that present themselves.

Reiki & Ashes

I have just completed my second level of Reiki! This evening, I will go perform my first practice on a patient and receive my Level 1 and 2 certificate. Lucky papa, arriving just in time to be my guinea pig for daily practice :)

The night of day 1, level 1, where I received a balancing and cleansing, provoking the release of negative bottled up feelings, I fell asleep with tears rolling down my cheeks. At the end of day 2, level 1, where I received my first attunement, the channeling of positive energies from master to student, I fell asleep with a smile on my face. Such is the power of this simple yet miraculous medicine.

Yesterday afternoon, after class, I ventured further than before along the ghats. I was headed to Assi Ghat, and asked the man at the front desk of my guesthouse whether walking along the ghats was the simplest way to get there. He said, "Sure, if you're willing to walk in this heat!" It was a 40-minute walk, peek sun, and I did it both ways, but not without a litre of water in each direction! I went to Assi ghat since it's one of the more famous ones, but also because the Open Hand Cafe was there. It's a cafe/boutique that sells goods made by underprivileged locals. Couldn't resist a few purchases. Along the sunny, hot walk there and back along the ghats, I saw a wedding, 3 cremations, a squatting man's dangling penis and balls, and a peeing sadhu. "Unapologetically indiscreet" indeed!

Last night was a very special evening. As you may remember, I have some of my grandmother's ashes with me. Back in Goa, I put a small portion of them in the ocean, as I swam in the waters of the most peaceful, serene beach I had been to. Then, last night, more ashes were offered to the sacred Ganga. I took a dusk boat trip along the river, my wooden boat rowed by the friendly 16-year-old Rahul, who was on summer vacation and rowing for pocket money (I tipped him as much as the one-hour ride cost, Rs100 - $2). First stop was the famous Manikarna Ghat - the burning ghat. This is where families from all over India bring deceased loved ones to be cremated and have their ashes put into the holy river. It is believed that if a body is cremated here, the person will receive instant Moksha, liberation form the cycle of birth and rebirth. Cremations here are quite expensive, at least Rs10,000 ($200) to buy the wood. Therefore, a little further up the river, there's the electric burning ghat, which is cheaper. (This was started in part to avoid half cremated bodies floating along the water - families who didn't have enough money to buy all the wood necessary for cremation. Yikes.) So there I was, sitting in a wooden row boat with Rahul, as darkness fell over the city, watching several cremation fires burning at Manikarna Ghat. It felt like a very bizarre dream. Incredibly surreal. Next, we boated a little further down to an old Tibetan temple, before turning around to head up towards Dasaswamedh Ghat for the 7 o'clock Ganga Aarti - river and fire worship. It was on the way there that I spread Grand-maman's ashes along the river, saying prayers for her as I did so. Rahul, who had been quite chatty up until then (giving me a lot of the info I just shared), gave me a moment of silence. And a beautiful moment it was. As I finished, and we approached Dasawamedh Ghat, I lit the small flower floater I bought from a little girl on the ghat before leaving, and set it afloat with the hundreds of others like it on the Ganga. We stopped, along with dozens of other boats, to watch Ganga Aarti being performed on the ghat (where hundreds of people were sitting), and I just took in the moment. Its energy, its vibrations, its sounds, its magic.
 

Photo-blog

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Fascinating Reiki

Well, although I can't say I love Varanasi, I am really falling for reiki. Went for my second class today, and have decided to go on to level 2.

First, a bit about yesterday. Forgot to mention that I woke up at 5am and couldn't fall back asleep, so I took advantage of the situation and went out onto the guesthouse balcony to watch the sunrise over the Ganga. Beautiful, of course. Went back to my room and managed to fall back asleep till 9, then moved into room #2. After my first reiki class that afternoon, which ended, as I said, with a cleanse and balance of my energies and chakras, I felt every emotion very strongly. At my core, I felt a deep sense of calmness, but at the surface, was acutely aware of the emotions that arose. They were mostly negative, which sometimes felt a little overwhelming. This is normal, my guru told me today, as after a cleansing, the negative emotions we are holding onto must be released. Guess it was working! Today's class wasn't really a class, it was my level 1 initiation (or attunement). It's more or less the channeling of energies and healing powers from guru to student. It lasted over an hour, in a dim room with candles and incense lit. At the the end of the session, I was given the reiki level 1 booklet to read. I was fascinated and hooked. Reiki healing makes so much sense to me, and I had felt exactly the way the book said one might after a cleansing and initiation. My guru had said very little about what was going on during the class, and I was initially a little confused and skeptic. But reading these notes, everything is coming together. Level 1 and 2 are done in 4 days, so I have 2 left, finishing on Friday.

Ventured a little further along the ghats today than I had before, discovering new sights and spots. And getting lost in the narrow lanes many times. Didn't think I'd find my way back. But I did.

The intro to Varanasi in my guidebook describes it perfectly, so I'll end with that today.

"Brace yourself. You're about to enter one of the most blindingly colourful, unrelentingly chaotic and unapologetically indiscreet places on earth. Pilgrims come to the ghats lining the River Ganges here to wash away a lifetime of sins in the sacred waters or to cremate their loved ones. Most visitors agree it's a magical place, but it's not for the faint-hearted. Here the most intimate rituals of life and death take place in public and the sights, sounds and smells in and around the ghats - not to mention the almost constant attention from touts - can be overwhelming. Persevere. Varanasi is unique, and a walk along the ghats or a boat ride on the river will live long in the memory."

Like I said, I don't love this place. Its narrow lanes and crowds make me feel a little claustrophobic. The stink, the flies and the dung everywhere are a little irritating. But it does feel a little magic, and it's most definitely unique.     

Day 2 and 3 in Varanasi

Don't have a whole lot to write about today, so I'm going to go back to a few notes I didn't get a chance to share about Kolkata. Can't let you off with a 2-minute post ;)

As much as I loved the city, boy was it ever stinky! I often found myself taking very short breaths, taking in only what was needed to oxygenate my body and prevent me from passing out. Garbage cans aren't very popular in India (except in well-maintained parks), and therefore there is garbage everywhere on the streets. The heat and humidity make the odors particularly, um, fascinating. There are flies, dogs and cows eating from the piles of junk, then shitting it out a few steps further down the road. I also inhaled carefully small amounts of air when I walked by open street-side urinals. So yes, the city stinks. But the stereotype that Indians and their food smell bad is completely off. In fact, I've never seen anyone take such meticulous care of their hygiene as Indians. And I say that because I see it every day. They don't feel too strongly about privacy while bathing! If I'm in a city, I see people at the junction of street and sidewalk vigorously scrubbing their partially covered bodies with such intensity that I wonder how they have any skin left at all. With a bucket of soapy water, they wash away every inch of dirt. And if I'm in a town like Rishikesh or Varanasi, the cleansing takes place on the banks of the Ganga, where sin, as well dirt, is washed away. Teeth-brushing lasts at least five minutes, and clothes washing is just as thorough and public. And as for the food, no India does not stink of curry (and since when does curry smell bad?). When it doesn't smell like rotting garbage and dung, the smell of brewing chai or blooming flowers fills the air.

An item more particular to Kolkata is foot-drawn rickshaws. I had seen and been in plenty of auto-rickshaws (tuk-tuks), had seen many but only ridden in one cycle-driven rickshaw, but in Kolkata, they go one step further. No motor, no bike, just feet (often shoeless). Huge cartwheels have a small bench lodged between them, and two long rods of wood protrude forward from the center of the wheels. The small, skinny, glistening Indian man wraps his hands around these rods and speed-walks or runs through the chaotic streets of Calcutta. It's really quite something to see for the first time (picture the cover of the City of Joy movie if you know it).

Finally, the heat. Kolkata is scorching in April. It wasn't bad the first day I arrived, but that was just the city greeting me with a little mercy. It's so hot that even the Indians are sweating through their clothes and fanning themselves, wondering why someone from Canada would come to their city in the summer. And the men and women who carry umbrellas for a little reprieve don't make pedestrian circulation any easier. The sidewalks - when there are any - are crawling with people, and the low height of locals makes it dangerous for the eyes and face.

Ok, that's it for the Kolkata wrap-up. Back to Varanasi.

Took it easy yesterday, relaxing in my cool room, going out for narrow-lane walks, working on my photo-blog, and booking a level 1 Reiki course which I started today. I'm getting a 3-day private course with a smiley, friendly, oldish Indian man. 

At ten this morning, I transferred my bags into a cheaper, simpler room (only treated myself to AC for 2 nights). There's no bathroom (shared), no TV, no AC, no private balcony overlooking the river. But the room itself is actually much nicer, with shiny, tiled walls and a comfier bed and pillow, and it manages to stay relatively cool considering the heat outside (which actually isn't as bad as I was expecting). Instead of looking out over the Ganga, my room opens up onto the leafy, shady inner courtyard with benches and fountains. Not too bad at all.

Then, at 11, I was off to my two-hour Reiki day 1 class. The first half hour consisted of an introduction to Reiki and basic technique. Then there was 15 minutes for questions, answers, and discussion. And finally, a one-hour cleanse and balancing of my energies and chakras. Pretty fascinating stuff. More about that tomorrow after my initiation.

Room relaxation early afternoon, then Brown Bed Bakery for a delicious "BBB Special Salad".

I've been feeling very creatively inspired here, and have continued to work on my community plans. And I can hardly contain my excitement! My ideas are piecing together beautifully. After much brainstorming and scribbling and scratching out, I've also come up with what may be the final name for the community and the title for my book... but you'll have to wait to find out what those are!

Be patient. You will know when it's time for you to wake up and move ahead.
That very acknowledgment will prompt change and carry you to the next step in your journey.
-Ram Dass      

Holy Cows and Holy Ganga in Varanasi

Arrived in Varanasi at 6am yesterday. Back to Saturday evening...

Didn't go to New Market after writing my blog, wasn't up for the crowds and chaos. Sat in Blue Sky AC for a snack, then gathered my bags at Galaxy. As I was preparing to leave, the friendly manager gave me a pack of mini chocolate bars for the train - how sweet! It takes so little to be warmly remembered. Got a taxi to Howrah station, found my train, found my bunk. Again, I was on the side that had only two bunks and for once, I had the lower bunk which I was happy about. But a guy sitting nearby told me his mother had been assigned the upper bunk but had problems with her knees and would I mind switching with her? Of course, no problem. So back to my regular upper bunk spot, piled my bags at one end, and lay down for some yoga music and Life of Pi. Still loving the book. I couldn't fall asleep when I tried around 10:30, tossing and turning, the bright fluorescent ceiling lights shining onto my upper bunk (forgot to put my eye-mask in my little accessible bag). But I didn't care. I didn't care if I didn't sleep at all that night. I was comfortable, the train AC was working well, and the antibiotics had taken effect. I couldn't have asked for more.

Only ended up sleeping about 3 hours that night. Woke around 4am and hardly slept again until the train arrived at 6. Having read about the rampant Varanasi tuk-tuk scams, I was very clear with my driver (despite his speaking no English) about where I wanted to go and how much I wanted to pay. A few minutes after taking off, we got stuck in a massive traffic jam going through a bus/truck lot (first real jam since I've been in India, not bad). My crazy driver aggressively swerved through the mess when he could squeeze by, getting honked at wildly, and turned the motor off when there was nowhere to go. Which was often. I was glad the temperature hadn't reached its midday peak yet - would have been unbearable. Finally got to the drop-off spot about an hour later (14km). Tuk-tuks cannot go into the narrow lanes leading to the riverside ghats and guesthouses, so I had a 15 minute walk to Ganpati GH. Luckily, people pointed me in the right direction, or I would have never found my way through the narrow lanes. Bags are now heavier than ever, and I am determined not to add anything to them in Varanasi. Had to stop several times along to the way to put some down and regain my strength. Finally made it, only to be told that my booking confirmation e-mail had not been received. I knew I had sent it, but there must have been a computer glitch. Neither their fault nor mine. But I was hot, tired, and therefore irritated. They had a few options for me: a non-AC room, a room in a neighboring building that also belonged to them, or wait until 10am to see if another non-confirmed guest shows up or not. If not, it's a room like the one I wanted. I said I'd wait. It was about 7am. Went to their lovely patio overlooking the Ganga (nice to be back by it!) and read some magazines that were lying around. Walked around to other balconies on different levels of the GH, and marveled at the amount of activity on the ghats. There were so many boats and people, so much color. Received a call from Meera, had a nice chat, then went to the rooftop for a glass of orange juice at the resto. Desk guy came to find me around 9, telling me they had received a cancellation, and I could have the room I wanted. Yay! Waited till 10 while the room was being cleaned, then collapsed on the bed for a nap. Went out to explore a little a couple hours later, stopping for lunch at Brown Bread Bakery, an organic cafe that supports a school for underprivileged children and a women's empowerment group. Walked along the narrow lanes - shit, flies, cows and garbage everywhere, and realized it was easier to navigate the streets of Calcutta than the tiny back lanes of Varanasi. Quick stop at internet before going back to my AC room for another nap - exhausted after last night's limited sleep. Relaxed and read before hiking up the many flights of stairs to the rooftop restaurant for dinner. It was dark, and the view of the river and ghats was beautiful. There were religious chants coming from the loudspeakers as Ganga Arti (candle-lighting as offerings to the river) was being performed at a nearby ghat. Had a yummy salad and rice pudding while reading Life of Pi. Back in my room, I read more about Varanasi in my guidebook, watched a little TV, observed the moth flying around and the several geikos crawling on the wall, then had a great long sleep. AC was mediocre, but at least allowed me to pull a sheet and light blanket over me while I slept. Felt great!

Up at 10 this morning, off for breakfast (Ganga view again) and internet, then a short cool-room break. (I only have the AC room till 10 am tomorrow, so taking full advantage of it. Then it's 5 days of heat.) Lots of time to explore this strange and magical city, described by Mark Twain as: "older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together".     

Last two days in the City of Joy

On the road to recovery, still not 100%.

Didn't end up having a meal after my last post, just grabbed a small bag of plain chips and a bottle of water. Went down well, felt a little bit of appetite. Went back to the Fairlawn Hotel outdoor lobby for the Thursday night display and sale of Calcutta Rescue handmade products. Picked up a few more fair-trade, recycled bags, and the lady thanked me for coming back. I smiled and told her it was a great organization and the bags were very good quality. Made my way back to Galaxy for a somewhat refreshing shower - even with only the cold tap turned on, the water is merely cool. Didn't set my alarm for the next morning, as I still wasn't feeling great, and had very little energy.

I was disappointed not to be able to go in for my last day, but glad I had at least made it once to both centers so I could see and experience them. I'm sure I'll be back on another trip. Slept in then went to a little cafe/shop that again sells hand-made products to support street kids. Bought a couple notebooks, then had some proper food - muesli, fruit and curd was all I could handle. Went home, relaxed, and despite feeling tired and weak, planned out my last afternoon and evening in Kokata. There were still a few things I really wanted to do and see. Since most of the people I've met here are other volunteers and were at work, I'd be on my own for my little adventure. First, I went to Blue Sky and sipped a Pepsi in the AC for 45 minutes. After that, I felt ready to go.

I walked about 5 minutes to the Park Street metro station, trying out the Calcutta tube for the first time. It would save me about a 20 minute walk down the sunny and busy Chowringee Road. The train itself was pretty old and rickety, but the platforms were clean and nice. Paid my 4 rupee (8 cent) charge for a one-stop ride, getting off at Maidan station. Maidan is the name of the park that is the pride and joy of Calcutta, like Central Park is to New York. It is huge, home to Eden Gardens (where I went for the cricket match), soccer fields, and golf clubs. Eden is at the north end, I was now near the south end. Walked through the park a little before making my way down Shakespeare street to my first destination: Aurobindo Bhavan. It is a center dedicated to Sri Aurobindo, who was an Indian nationalist, freedom fighter, philosopher, yogi, guru and poet. I had heard the name a few times since being in India. I walked around the beautiful garden area, stopped by the tomb and statue, then entered the small, quaint bookstore. A very friendly shopkeeper greeted me, asking, after seeing me wipe the sweat from my face with my shawl (which is kleenex-thin, but feels like a fur coat in this heat - I wear it to be respectfully covered), why I was in Calcutta in the summer. I smiled and shrugged. 20 minutes later, I walked out with 15 new books. And I got a 10% teacher discount! (Didn't mention to him that I quite my job.) Most of the books were just small paper booklets, so it won't be too tragic for my bags.

Next destination: St-Pauls Cathedral. On the way, I passed the Indira Gandhi statue (no relation to Gandhi, former Prime Minister of India) and the Calcutta Planetarium. Then St-Paul's was before me, a stunning white Gothic Cathedral. I went in, walked around, then sat on a bench under a fan to rest and cool off a little. Back out for my third and final destination: Victoria Memorial. It was incredible. If one was dropped in front of it, not knowing where they were, they might mistake it for the Taj Mahal (though I may take that back after having been to the Taj). A beautiful, huge, marble building dedicated to Queen Victoria. Walked around, took lots of photos with the gorgeous post sunset sky as a backdrop, then sat by the water to rest again. Ten minutes later, the guards frantically started blowing their whistles to get everyone off the premises. It was 6pm, closing time. I had read about a recommended sound and light show in my guidebook, which took place at 7:45. They were clearing the grounds to prepare for the Bengali showing at 6:45. Bought my 20 rupee (40 cent) ticket and headed back into Maidan Park to pass time. It was dark by then, so I found a well lit bench area to sit and read. Stomach cramps were on-and-off all afternoon, and I was becoming quite desperate for a bathroom. Walked over to the park guards, who pointed me in the direction of "luxurious" public "toilets". Despite the filth and stench, I felt much better after. Luckily I had toilet paper and Purel in my bag. On my way out, I heard Indian music, followed the sound, and found a free live concert in the park, where many people were seated on chairs or on the grass. I joined them, listened for a while, took some videos of the talented singers and musicians, then went back to a bench for a bit more reading. It was then time to head to the VM gate for the show. The Bengali version was just finishing, so I waited at the gate. There was no one else there waiting. When the Bengali show ended and I walked in, the guard told me I was the only one who had purchased a ticket for the English show that night. I laughed and asked if it was safe for me to go anyway. He assured me that it was. All entrances to the site are guarded, and there would be a site worker near me the whole time. I said ok, and walked to the building. There were a few rows of plastic chairs set up, I got a front row seat. The worker then removed the other rows, putting the chairs away for night. I got comfortable, had a cookie and some water, then watched a great show in a magical setting. There was an introductory video projection on a screen to the left, followed by surround sound and lights that accompanied the narration of Calcutta's past. Different parts of the VM lit up at various times, creating a beautiful scene. Video came on at various times throughout. The Howrah Bridge was magnificently lit up in the distance to the right. It was a pretty indescribable feeling, being there on my own, in the sprawling grounds of the Victoria Memorial, the majestic building in front of me, and the history of this great city being projected and narrated for my eyes and ears only. What a perfect way to spend my last night in Calcutta. A guard escorted me out when the show ended, I thanked him for letting the show go on just for me, and walked 10 minutes to Maidan metro station. As I walked, I was humming the "I Love Calcutta" theme song from the presentation, and Kolkata loved me back, providing me with a safe trip home. Went one stop north to Park Street on the metro, and walked five minutes from there to Galaxy. Home at 9, used the toilet, went out for quick internet, then back for shower and bed.

Up at 10 this morning, feel a bit better but cramps and diarrhea haven't stopped. Went to the medical store just down the road and showed the clerk the empty packets (which I had kept in my first aid pouch for this purpose exactly) of the pre, pro, and antibiotics that I had taken in Rishikesh when I was sick. He had what I needed, and I was able to get them without a prescription. Hopefully they will start to take effect before I get on the overnight train to Varanasi tonight. Had a small but real meal (veg and cheese wrap) which felt pretty good, and then, despite still feeling weak, headed off to the last destination on my list: the Park Street Cemetery which I had just missed last Sunday. Considered getting a tuk-tuk there, but ended up walking the 30 minutes in the heat. Turned out to be the most amazing cemetery I've ever seen, a huge tree-filled area with enormous tomb stones over the bodies of India's British colonial past. Walked around for about 15 minutes, wanted to stay longer, but again had to find a toilet. Walked back along Park Street until I got to Cafe Coffee Day, feeling very faint along the way, hardly able to hold my head up or walk in a straight line. I knew this place would have decent bathrooms and AC. Both felt great. Sat down for a refreshing blue slush that somewhat brought me back to life, before heading out into the streets again for the final stretch of walk home. 

It's now 4:30, my train is at 7:30. Might go check out the New Market just a block over - the only thing on my list that I've yet to do - then relax in an AC resto before getting a tuk-tuk to the train station. Next post from Varanasi, where it's even hotter that here! (Booked myself a nice AC room for the first two nights.)

Love is the only reality and it is not a mere sentiment.  It is the ultimate truth that lies at the heart of creation.

-Sri Aurobindo

     

Sick Days

Still not feeling great, but surviving. Back to Tuesday evening.

On the tuk-tuk ride home from Kalighat, I asked Donald how patients end up there. Do they admit themselves? Are they referred? He said most of them are brought by people who simply noticed their dire condition on the street. The Missionaries of Charity programs are very well-known around Kolkata. I'm surprised there weren't more patients there.

Got back to Sudder street, blogged about Shishu Bhavan, and went to Jojo's for some dessert. Before I started eating, I felt a little off. Back in my room, I had a cool rinse, wrote about my day, and watched a little TV. It was almost midnight by the time I turned the lights out. I set my alarm for 6 the next morning, again planning to go in for breakfast but not mass. I wanted to do both shifts, Shishu Bhavan in the morning, Kalighat in the afternoon.

Alarm went off at 6, didn't fall back asleep this time (even though, again, it took me forever to fall asleep the night before). But very tired and when I got up I felt nauseous and had bad stomach pains and hot flashes. And was sick. I considered trying to go in anyway, but after going to the bathroom 3 times in 10 minutes, I figured it wouldn't be such a good idea. Wouldn't be of much use, and we are told not to come in if we are sick. So I got back into my PJs, and was back in bed by 6:30. Besides a few quick trips to the toilet, I didn't get up again until 2:30pm. Body was shutting down on me and telling me to slow down. I listened. Relaxed in my room a little more before heading out to get some crackers and 7up to take to internet. Answered a few e-mails, took care of a few bookings, and went back to my room to lie down some more. I started mapping out plans for the community I hope to set up when I get home, which was very exciting and made me feel a bit better. Can't wait to share my ideas and see who's on board! Still felt very hot and sticky, which made the sickness feel even worse, so I headed back out to internet since it's AC and brings me back to life a little. Spent two hours writing my Kalighat blog, then headed back to Galaxy, planning to do a little laundry, but was exhausted when I got back and still didn't feel good, and could do nothing but lie down. All I ate that day were about 6 crackers, with some 7up and a bottle of water. Turned the lights out a 9, but kept the TV on (low volume, cricket match), as that sometimes helps me fall asleep. I was desperate not to take hours to get to sleep again. Having the TV on somehow puts less pressure on falling asleep, as it feels like it's not really bed time yet. When there's less pressure, things happen more easily. It's all in my head, I know.

It worked! (Or maybe it was just because I was sick and exhausted. Either way, I was thrilled to have found sleep quickly.) I woke briefly just before 1am to turn the TV off, then again at 5:45 to go to the bathroom. Sleep again till 8:15 this morning. Stayed awake that time, feeling relatively well-rested from my early sleep, but was still a bit sick. Thursday (today) is a day off for volunteers, and on every 1st and 3rd Thursday of the month, the sisters organize a field trip for us. Today's was to go to a leper colony, to visit and see how they live. When the sister at registration had told me about this last Friday, I immediately signed up for the outing. It was from 7am to noon. But considering my state yesterday and last night, I didn't even set my alarm for this morning. It was disappointing, but I needed to rest, relax and sleep in. So I did. Got a bit of laundry done then went out for a bit of internet. AC was again a life-saver. Got home, hung up my soaking laundry, and got ready to head out to the Indian Museum. It was just a 5 minute walk away, right around the corner, so if I didn't feel well, I could easily come back. It was on my list of things to do in Kolkata, and time is running out. The museum was described in my guidebook as the biggest and oldest museum in India. Indeed, it was huge, and it was old. Rooms were dark, gloomy and dusty. There was the most impressive collection of fossils and dinosaur skeletons I've ever seen. There was also the lovely room with creepy stuffed animals, which, as my guidebook says, "look in dire need of a proper burial". Would be a great place for the filming of a sequel to Night at the Museum. Managed to look around for about an hour, but had very little energy (walking up the many steps to the second floor was not easy) and was easily irritated by the Indian guys who kept trying to make small-talk and "discreetly" take photos of me. Walked home grumpy and exhausted. Had a short nap and then headed back out to do something I've wanted to do back home but never have: go see a movie by myself. Figured it was a good option to pass time this afternoon, as I couldn't do much else. Got my ticket for the 3pm showing of Housefull 2, the biggest blockbuster comedy right now in India, and happily entered the AC theater. During the movie, I ate for the first time today: the other 6 crackers from the small pack I started yesterday. The movie was pretty terrible, but I was evidently the only one to think so. The whole theater was in hysterics, laughing loudly and clapping the whole time, at what was very stupid and corny comedy. Wasn't quite the right medicine for my irritated state. And to make things a little worse, the large man two seats down from me (there's was no one on either side, which was nice) kept taking off his shoes and wriggling his stinky toes over the edge of the balcony (first row of the upper balcony, good seats). Ok, so a little good, a little bad. Considered leaving at intermission (there's always a 5-10 minute intermission at movies here), but decided to tough it out. 

Quick stop at my room (for toilet, of course), before coming here to write, and I'm finally up to date. Might try having a small proper meal when I leave here. Tomorrow is supposed to be my 4rth (well, 2nd) and last day of volunteering, but not sure I'll make it. I'll see how I feel later tonight. I'll be quite sad not to see the kids and patients again if I don't make it. But every time I leave somewhere without finishing everything I wanted to do, I always remind myself that I'll be back in India many, many more times.   
  

M of C Part 2

No work today, stayed home sick. Figured that might happen after Kalighat. Backtrack to Monday noon.

Walked home after morning shift at Shishu Bhavan, had lunch at Blue Sky, and asked for directions to the State Bank of India (SBI). Had to go there to make a money transfer to Swati, so that work could begin on the bathroom. Found it after asking for directions 4 more times. Went in to find about 50 people in the waiting room, and when I got my number, realized others must be waiting elsewhere: my number was 322, electronic signs indicated around 240. There were 4 booths, but lunch break was from 2:00-2:30 (it was 2:00), so one or two were always empty. Chairs were full, so I stood for half an hour (was offered a seat, but kindly turned it down), then around 2:30 some spots cleared up so I sat. Was exhausted from my short sleep the night before, eyes were closing and head kept bobbing up and down. After sitting for half an hour (now just after 3), the numbers were getting close to mine so I played some Sudoku on my phone to stay awake. Wasn't going to miss my number after all this time! 322 finally lit up on the screen, and I told the man I wanted to transfer money from my Visa card to Swati's SBI account. He told me I needed to pay cash, not Visa. Sent me to the ATM around the corner, and I made sure I didn't have to wait in line again when I got back. ATM had a 6 person line-up, stood in the heat (bank had AC, thank goodness) for about 10 minutes, and got the cash. Went back to bank counter, and made the transfer. Had been trying for the past week through Western Union, but it never worked. Glad it was finally done. Back out into the hot streets, figuring my way back home after lots of turning around to get there. Back at Sudder street, used AC internet and went back to my room for a much needed nap. That day, for the first time since I've been in India, I got out my Purel and face wipes. Lots of slimy kids with skin diseases that morning. I had planned to go to Kalighat (home for the dying) for the afternoon shift from 3-6, but I was stuck at the bank and really wanted to get the transfer done. Relaxed that evening instead.

Alarm went off at 6 yesterday morning (had a very hard time falling asleep again the night before), and I stopped the beep, closed my eyes for a few seconds... and woke up again at 7:30 from the sound of an incoming text. Shit. Missed breakfast (hadn't planned to go to mass that morning, it's optional). I could have quickly gotten up and rushed over to Shishu Bhavan for 8, but felt really drowsy, and figured it was better not to push myself too much. No point going to work exhausted and risking getting sick. So again, I took it easy, shanti, shanti. Think I needed the rest, didn't wake up again till 11:20. Went out to internet then brunch, and decided I should really go to Kalighat that afternoon since I missed yesterday pm and today am. (You commit to certain times and shifts, but no one checks or takes attendance. If you make it, you make it; if you don't, you don't.) So I researched the center a little while I was at internet, since I was a little more nervous about this place than I was about Shishu Bhavan. Found great info and a detailed article about one volunteer's time there, and felt much more confident. At 2:30, hopped into a tuk-tuk for a 15 minute ride to Bridge number 4, which I'd then have to cross on foot to get to Prem Dan. (Prem Dan is a large building that houses other Missionaries of Charity programs, and the Kalighat patients are only temporarily located there while the original Kalighat is being renovated. The original was the first center Mother Teresa opened under the name of Missionaries of Charity. From my little MT booklet: One of the patients there said,"I have lived like an animal in the street, but I am going to die like an angel, loved and cared for." Goosebumps.) So, got to the bridge, walked across, and to my left was the worst slum I've yet to see in India. Haven't seen or smelled anything like it before. When I registered for Kalighat at the Mother House, the sister who did my paper work warned me against coming here on my own. She said the slum was quite bad and that the children could get aggressive. But hey, if I listened to people's warnings all the time, I wouldn't be in India in the first place. I was determined to go to Kalighat, so I went on my own. No problem as I bordered the slum across the bridge, seeing the big light blue Prem Dan building on my left, and when I slowed down, a little unsure about how to get to the main entrance (the slum was between the bridge and Prem Dan), a kind slum man assumed I was heading to PD and pointed me in the right direction. Took stairs down into the slum, walked along the train tracks, back into the slum, and walked along the tall concrete barb-wired wall surrounding PD until I found the main gate. Man let me in through a small trap door, asked me where I was volunteering, said Kalighat, and he led me to women's ward. 

A kind Indian woman working there greeted me warmly, telling me to sit under the fan for a few minutes before starting, as the walk over in the heat had made me quite red and glossy. It was a small room, with just 12 little cots, 10 of them occupied. I'd say the women were between 30 and 80. Some were tied up to tubes, some just lying there with half open eyes. They were all extremely skinny and few of them had any hair. The hardest part about this initial sight is that I was reminded all too vividly of my mother in her final weeks. I worked hard at keeping my composure, not wanting to let these women see me break down when they were the ones suffering. After a few minutes of fan cool-down, the Indian woman started giving me tasks. (No other volunteers were in this ward.) Step one was giving the women their pills with a glass of water. The little pill cups were numbered, as were the cots, so I knew who to give what to. All were very cooperative at taking their medicine, some able to drink on their own, some needing help. I then helped lift one woman's legs as the Indian worker removed the feces  bin from under her and wiped her. I did a few dishes after that (mostly water cups, not the feces bin), and then it was feeding time. The first woman I was assigned to refused to eat her meal, and kept asking me for chocolate. I gently persisted for the food, but to no avail. The second woman I fed cooperated, but ate very slowly, staring into space with half-closed, puss-filled eyes. I felt a little helpless when other women were requesting something from me in Hindi, and I couldn't understand. Did a few more dishes, then the Indian worker sat down at the end of a cot and motioned for me to do the same. She smiled and chatted with me, in broken but decent English, and when she was telling me about the daily schedule, and about lunch being at 11am, the woman whose cot I was sitting on the end of interjected, and said, "No, it's at 11:30," in what sounded like pretty good English. The worker told me this woman spoke very good English, and the woman was then happy to chat with me. She asked a few questions, asked me what I did back home. "I'm a teacher." She held my hand, smiled widely and thanked me (as the worker had also done earlier when I answered the same question). The woman went on to tell me that she had been a principal at Calcutta University, after living in London for 25 years and attending Oxford University. She told me her dream was that another big university be built in Kolkata so that more students could attend and be educated. Beautiful. As there was little else to do in the women's ward at that time, the worker brought me across the courtyard to the male side. 

There, I was greeted by a few other volunteers: one white haired British man who was obviously a long-term volunteer, Donald from Ireland who had been there for 3 months, Jeff from Belgium who had been there a month, and 2 Asian couples who were also on their first day at Kalighat. Put my bag in the volunteer cupboard, put my apron on, and got to work. 

This side was much bigger, with many more patients. Probably about 50. There were two rooms with cots, from which some able-bodied patients could come and go; a long, open corridor along the front of the rooms, and a garden area where they could sit, wander and chat. I talked for a few minutes to the high-spirited and sociable Raja, who had an artificial foot from a good hospital in Rajasthan. Then brought a glass of water to a few men who requested it. (Luckily, I knew what water is in Hindi: pannee.) Most could drink on their own, some needed a little assistance. Soon after, it was lunch time. We were to distribute the hearty plates of rice and veg stew to the men, spoon-feeding those who needed help. My first request for help was from a 20-something man with no legs below the knees, and limited use of his arms. He smiled a few times as I fed him, but also kept putting his hand against his chest, turning sideways and making groaning noises. Jeff peeked in and thanked me, saying this guy wouldn't eat from the men. But I think he liked the female presence a little too much, as he reached for my leg a couple times. I firmly but kindly said "no", pushing his hand away, and he nodded "ok" and stopped. Towards the end of the meal, when he turned sideways, he vomited his lunch. Oh boy. Ok. I went out and asked Jeff what I could use to clean it up, but he insisted on doing it himself while I took over feeding the guy he was taking care of. This guy was younger, about 15, and appeared only half awake. His eyes were half-shut and oozing, but he agreed to eat. Like yesterday's girl I fed at the orphanage, he chewed and swallowed in very slow motion and was the last to finish his meal, but unlike her, he never smiled. I then did a few post-lunch dishes and brought water to those who were still thirsty. One man kept pointing at his shirt and requesting something, but I couldn't understand. I went to get one of the sisters so she could tell me what he wanted. She grinned and said he wanted to wear a blue shirt - he was wearing a beige one. She said some of them were very particular. So I went to the cupboard, got a fresh blue shirt, and helped him change. He was happy. We then just had to walk around making sure everyone was ok and had what they needed. In the front room, I met the youngest boy in the ward. He must have been about 12. Most were middle-aged men. This boy's arms and legs were tied down to the bed he was lying on, and when I inquired, was told he was a little crazy and also had a very bad left foot which he would walk on and further damage if he wasn't strapped down. He motioned for me to sit beside him and smiled widely as he shook my hand. He had the most beautiful smile and eyes I've ever seen. He went on to make funny faces to make me laugh. He was in incredibly good spirits. One volunteer fed him a chewy toffee candy, which he gnawed at and tried to unstick from his teeth with his tongue for the next half hour. Did a final round to check up on the others, and the shift was just about done. I peeked back in to wave good-bye to him as we left, and noticed he was pulling at the knot that held down his right arm, trying to get it undone. He was crying. It was heart-breaking. I gently put my hand over his forearm to stop the tugging, smiled at him and said I'd see him tomorrow. I took off my apron, scrubbed my hands with soapy water, got my bag and water bottle, and made my way back through the slums to the bridge with the other volunteers. Along the way, slum kids aggressively grabbed at our water bottled, but again it is strongly advised that we do not give them anything, as this encourages begging and leads them to always expect things from foreigners. So I held tightly onto my bottle, firmly removing the little fingers that latched onto it. Not easy. We got to end of the bridge, bargained with two tuk-tuks, and hopped in. All in all, I was pleased with the Kalighat experience. I planned to do both Shishu Bhavan and Kalighat the next day.

This post has again become quite long, so what happened to those plans will be blogged about tomorrow. Off to do a little laundry, then bed.    

Missionaries of Charity

I've just returned from day 2 of volunteering for Mother Teresa's Missionaries of Charity. Yesterday morning, I was at Shishu Bhavan (which means home for children), an orphanage for physically and mentally handicapped children. This afternoon, I was at Kalighat, home the dying and destitute. Let's start with yesterday.

My alarm went off at 5am, and I was far from ready to wake up. It had taken me hours to fall asleep the night before; it was past 1am by the time I did. Not sure if it was the heat and stickiness (I had been in AC the past 3 nights), or the "quiet" fan which was not so quiet after all, or the smell of my room (I would describe it as the moldy, closed-in basement of a 50 year-old cottage), or the excitement/anxiety of starting unfamiliar work the next day, but whatever it was, it kept me up until the wee hours of the morning. I groggily got out of bed after less than 4 hours of sleep, got ready, and left at 5:30. It was lighter out than I had expected, which was good, as I had a 15 minute walk down narrow streets to get the Mother House. There were lots of people out and about already, but lots also still sleeping. And it was on this early morning walk that I realized just how many people sleep on the sidewalks. Usually, when I walk by, their beds have been replaced by vending stalls. The streets were much calmer, less honking, and it was unusually easy to cross the street. A few kids shouted hi to me as I walked by, their parents hanging up the meat or knick-knacks for sale. Already, it was a scorcher of a day. Great. Intense heat for day one of work. And there certainly wasn't going to be AC where I was going! 

I arrived at the Mother House at ten to 6, was directed upstairs to the main chapel, and sat down on a bench for mass. To the left of the chapel were about a hundred sisters (mostly Indian, but a few Asian and a few white) seated on the floor, and over to the right, a dozen foreigners (there would eventually be about double that) were seated on the floor or on benches. A few rickety fans provided a nice breeze in the hot and humid room. At 6, mass began with a few chants, then the Indian priest came in and read a few passages from the Bible. Mass was scheduled to go from 6-7, and by then I figured it must be about half over. I looked at the clock, ten past 6. Oh boy. This was going to be a long one. I stood when the others stood, knelt when the others knelt, and sat when they sat. I listened to but did not participate in the chanting. At 6:30, the priest ended mass and walked out. Yay! Only half an hour. But no one else left. Oh. There's more. The sisters then chanted for about 10 minutes, then all the ones who were dressed in the blue-bordered white saris walked out, along with a few foreigners from the right side of the room, leaving only the fully white dressed sisters (novices, I presumed) and a handful of westerners. I had been anxious for mass to end, but stuck around a few minutes just out of curiosity. The novices continued chanting, and one by one, the people on the right left the room. When there only two others left, I decided to head out. It was then downstairs to the breakfast hall, at 6:45, where all the volunteers (about 30) gathered and chatted over a cup of chai, a small green banana, and a couple slices of plain white bread. Hoped that would last me until noon. Said hi to the Texan girl from orientation and the 3 Germans from dinner. As I ate, I read more in the small booklet I had picked up about Mother Teresa's life, feeling incredibly inspired and moved by her courage, dedication, and selflessness. At about quarter to 8, we washed our cups and gathered for a short prayer. The nun in charge then asked if it was anyone's last day of work. One Chinese girl said yes, was brought to the center and a cheerful thank you chant and clapping followed. She was emotional after having been there only 4 days. Leaders then held up signs for each of the centers, some groups walking, others taking a bus. There was no sign for Shishu Bhavan. I waited a few minutes, still nothing. I saw Hugh, the Irish guy from orientation and inquired. He said that group had left already, since the center was just a few minutes away. I had walked there on Friday (following the quick-paced Texan nun), so I knew where to go.

A few volunteers were setting up the dispensary on the ground floor when I arrived, and directed me to the second floor for the orphanage. There is also an orphanage on the ground floor, but it is for "regular" kids who are school-taught by long-term volunteers and can be adopted. I went upstairs, where only one other girl (only women can volunteer at this orphanage) was waiting on a wooden bench just outside the entrance door. She was from France, and doing her PHD in Calcutta, researching nano-composites, looking for useful and ecological material combinations (she was working on a project that mixed coconut fiber and oil - forget which kind - to produce sturdy plastic). She had been at Shishu Bhavan for about a week already, so she told me a bit about the schedule and tasks, which was a relief since Hugh said the first few days can be tough since you're pretty much left on your own, given few directives and expected to just jump in and make yourself useful somehow. I was glad to have Alice give me a few pointers. At 8, we entered the room. It was a large, simple room, with a few colorful signs and posters. Most of the space was taken up by colorfully painted metal-barred cribs, with a small eating and playing space off to the side. I put my bag and water in the volunteer cupboard, got my apron, and began. The day started with all the children seated on a matted area of the floor, for about 15 minutes of songs. Some kids were strapped into special chairs as they could not use their arms or legs, others sat or lay on the floor. We were to hold one or two of the floor kids, to keep them calm or help them sit up if they were lying down. Of course, I happened to pick the most agitated one of the bunch, who squirmed and wriggled the whole time. A few kids were then singled out and asked, in English, to point at certain body parts. They smiled proudly as everyone clapped when they got it right. Then a few children needed their nappies changed (no throw away Huggies, of course - simple cloth wraps that were hand-washed and re-used). Next was time for some water. Most could not drink on their own, so we spoon-fed the water out of stainless steel cups. My first kid was a very cooperative drinker. Then we played with kids a little, while the sisters gave some of them leg, arm, and body massages to stimulate their limbs. (There are sisters, volunteers, and Indian women who are paid to work there. A few other female volunteers arrived after Alice and I.) It was then time for warm milk, which was again spoon-fed from a cup. My second kid was less cooperative. Try spoon-feeding milk to a 3 year old who has little control over her neck, is always looking sideways to see what's going on, and sucks the milk off the spoon as if it were a bottle. Let me know how it goes. Managed to get through it with minimal mess. 

At 10:30, it was break time for the volunteers. One of the older children, who acts as a helper and is very serious about her job, led me to a sink where I could wash my hands, and then to the staircase where the 5 other girls were already gathered for tea and biscuits. I thanked the little helper and joined them. (The kids vary in age from about 2-12. At least half of them can't walk or eat independently. One, who I tried not to look at with too much shock, had a body the size of a one year old, with a head about 5 times the size it should be. I've seen such things on the discovery channel, but never thought I'd see it with my own eyes.) After a 15 minute break/chat with the other volunteers, it was back to work. 

Now was lunch time. I decided to go help with the older kids (had spent most of the morning with the younger ones). Brought a plate of rice, egg and veg stew to a girl who was sitting alone in a corner on a bench by the window. She seemed a little out of it and very tired, but I convinced her to have some lunch that I spoon fed her. We are encouraged to try getting the older kids to eat on their own, but she was much too spacey for that at this time. Her eyes kept closing as she chewed and swallowed in very slow motion. A few times, I got her to smile. Halfway through the meal, she started banging her head on the concrete wall she was leaning on, and continued to do so on and off. So for the remainder of lunch, I used my left hand on the wall to receive her head and soften the hit, and my right hand to feed her from the dish on my lap. Seeing the easily accessible dish, other kids came over and dunked their mouth in it, which I could do little about given my hand positioning. Sisters either laughed it off or raised  their voices at the sneaky kids to get them away from my plate. My sleepy head-banger was the last to finish her meal. There were then a few more nappies to change before putting the kids down for nap time. By noon, all were in bed, some sleeping, some crying, some fidgeting, some laughing. And our volunteer morning shift was up.

I had planned to go on about yesterday afternoon and today in this post, but it's 8pm and I'm getting tired, a little hungry, and a little sick of typing. So part 2, 3 and 4 tomorrow!

       

Swati's family/Children of the Ganges Fund update

Hi all!

Only 6 weeks left in India! Time sure does fly...

Speaking of flying, my dad will be here in 2 weeks, so this is a reminder to all those who wish to contribute to the "Swati's family/Children of the Ganges Fund" that you can send a cheque to my dad's address (435 Place Chaumont, St-Lambert, Quebec, J4S 1S5), so he can bring the money when he comes. The cheque should be addressed to me, he has access to my account.

Reminder that the money will go to two places:
1) Building a bathroom in Swati's parents' home (they must walk down the road to use a toilet). The costs have increased from the initial amount since a contractor came to their home for an estimate, telling them they would have to relocate the outdoor "kitchen" area to put the bathroom there due to the plumbing. And I wanted to also clarify, since some have asked about this, that Swati's "decent" salary (which I mentioned earlier) as the teacher at Children of the Ganges, is Rs.3000 ($60) per month (about 2 bucks a day). So she's not making a boatload of money that could go towards helping her parents (even if doing so were not against cultural norms).
2) Buying a projector for the Children of the Ganges classroom. Swati was sent a laptop by the woman who founded the school, but she is unsure how to effectively use it in the classroom. I told her she'd have lots more options with a projector attached to it! And I can teach her how to use it while I'm there in May.

Many have generously donated already, thank you! I'll soon have enough for both the bathroom and the projector!
Meera, my coworker from Chambly Academy, has kindly donated a camera to Children of the Ganges. Thanks Meeraji!
My dad will be bringing school supplies, mostly for math, but also some English reading books. Merci Papa!

So, you've got 2 weeks to get your cheques to my dad's before he leaves and contribute to this beautiful family and school :)

I will be sure to take photos of the bathroom construction, and videos of Swati using the projector in class!

Thank you so much! (From me and Swati, who again expressed her gratitude today when I called her, saying she couldn't put into words how much she appreciates this.)

Erika

April 15th

Today is my mother's birthday; she would be turning 67. Happy birthday mum!

Since I only spent a few minutes at Mother House a couple days ago, before being whisked off to the registration center, I decided to go spend more time there today to celebrate my mother's birthday and meditate. First, a little backtracking.

Yesterday, I explored the city a little more, walking down Park Street, which is like the St-Catherine of Montreal or the 5th Avenue of New York. Nice hotels, fancy boutiques, western restaurants. But of course, with a touch of India - beggars, loud honking, garbage everywhere (if only there were occasional trash cans, so much littering could be avoided). That evening, I went out for dinner with Marianka (girl from South Africa I went to the cricket match with) and 3 Germans she met while volunteering that day. She was only doing one day of volunteering, as she was leaving today, going back to Thailand where she has lived for the past 2 years. Told her I'd get in touch with her when I make it to South Africa one day!

This morning, at ten to nine, I was woken by the sound of, "Hello? Hello?! Help! Hello?! Help! Someone help! I'm stuck in my bathroom! I can't get  out! I'm in room 201 at The Golden Apple! Hello? Help me please!!" I was in room 202. I listened a few seconds more, understood that someone from the alley below had heard and responded. "Thank you! Please hurry!!" A couple minutes went by, nothing happened, she kept yelling. So I got up, got dressed, and went down to reception to let them know my neighbor was stuck in her bathroom (sounds a little comical as I write it, but she really sounded distressed!). There was another man from the floor above us who was also there reporting the shouts, and the security guy from outside then came in, having been told about the situation by someone who heard her in the streets. Ok, they knew, I could return to my room. While brushing my teeth, I could hear her from next door: "No, stop. It has nothing to do with the lock. The knob is broken, you'll have to remove the whole handle. It has nothing to do with the lock!" I went over to make sure the people there could understand English, turns out her English friend was there (was she out when her friend was stuck and yelling?). So again I returned to my room. A few minutes later, I heard her thanking the guys, she was saved. When I took my shower a little later, I put a soap box to stop the door from shutting completely... just in case.
 

Went out for some internet and breakfast at the great little Raj's Spanish Cafe, where I saw a huge banner advertising Raj's motorbike fundraiser trip, from Howrah Bridge in Kolkata to London Bridge in, you guessed it, London. If you want to donate (funds are to build a free hospital in Kolkata) or just check it out, go to www.bridge2bridge.in. It's a great project! Then it was back to Golden Apple for packing and check-out, moving 3 minutes away, down Stuart Lane off Sudder Street to Galaxy Guesthouse. Great, friendly spot, but back to basics. Simple, scruffy room with no AC, but a strong, quiet fan. I'll be there for a week, till my overnight train next Saturday. Last night, Marianka gave me her Indian SIM card (since she was leaving) so I could try it out in my cell phone (which I brought but never used). Went to an AirTel booth today, but turns out my phone is locked to its original network. Cheapest phone they had for sale was 25 bucks, so I got one. It's cheaper to call home from pre-paid cards than international calling booths, and now that I'm settled here for a week (and there are lots of other foreigners), I've met some people to do activities with, and they all have phones, so figured I'd get in the loop. Connected in Calcutta!

Then I was off to the Mother House (called Swati on the walk there, had a nice chat). I went into the exhibition hall, where there is a very nice display of Mother Teresa's life, with info, pictures and objects. I really loved seeing the brown leather sandals she walked around Calcutta in, and had to laugh to myself when I saw, behind the glass casing, a big stack of used envelopes that she kept for reuse, which, with my hoarder tendencies, is something I also collect. After reading through the panels, learning so much more than what I already knew about this fascinating woman, I went into the room where her body is buried. There is a beautiful tomb, some gorgeous paintings made by a local artist for the commemoration of the hundredth year of her birth (2010), then sat on a wooden bench and meditated. I meditated on Mother Teresa, Mother Joy, Mother I, and just Mother. I imagined Mother Teresa sitting beside me on my left, Mother Joy on my right, and I meditated on the connection between the three of us. Then on the unity of us all. The loud, incessant honking coming through the windows from the busy street behind me slowly became music to my ears, and then it faded completely as I fell into profound peace. Other tourists coming in, sitting on the bench near me, and creating a little sound and movement are what brought me back to the room. I slowly opened my eyes, gathered my bag, camera and water bottle, and walked to the entrance of the room where there was paper and pen for prayer requests. I wrote one for mom, folded it, and put it into the simple wooden box on top of Mother Teresa's tomb.

Back out into the noisy street, I headed in the direction of the Park Street Cemetery. I remember how much mom loved walking through cemeteries and reading the inscriptions on the tombs, and my guidebook said this one was quite impressive. I had the city map in my memory, but turned in the wrong direction when I got to Park St. Asked a cop along the way where it was, and I walked in the direction he pointed. There were no more tourists in this part of town, and the further I walked, the less I felt like I should be there. Got to another main intersection, still no sign of the cemetery, so I turned back and used my quick-paced, confident, I-know-where-I'm-going-walk. Let me tell you, there was no shortage of sweat drippage as I sped-walked through the sunny mid-afternoon streets of the city. Got back to the main area where I had asked the cop, decided to give up on the cemetery for today, and made my way back towards home along Park Street. Two minutes later, there it was on my left. It had closed 15 minutes ago. Bummer. Would have made it if I didn't get lost. (But did get some fantastic photos of grimy city life along the way!) I'll try going back later this week. Stopped at Barista Cafe for a sandwich and kiwi-lemonade, then made my way back to Sudder St, and here I am writing my blog. (Had a great Skype chat with my sis halfway through :)

Will grab a snack as I head back to my room, for a good sleep before waking up at 5am tomorrow for my first day of volunteering. Wish me luck!    

Calcutta, Kolkata, Love It!

I'm on my 3rd day in Kolkata, and it has joined the ranks of Mumbai as a huge Indian city I love! It feels very different from Mumbai, but they're both amazing. Calcutta is a little scruffier, but it's a charming scruff.

On the evening of the 12th, I had dinner at the Fairlawn (after a beer and read on their garden terrace), and it so happened that on Thursday nights, the Calcutta Rescue (www.calcuttarescue.org) foundation (for the underpriviledged) displays things to sell that are fairtrade and made by hand by the impoverished and handicapped people at the center. Went on a little shopping spree (Rs.1000/$20) and got some beautiful bags, jewelerry and cards. The woman was thrilled. Bed around midnight in my huge room, didn't wake up till 10! Thought I might have missed the included breakfast, but luckily they were still serving. Ate, packed my bags, visited the rest of the hotel - it's like a museum in there! Loved the walls covered in old photos and newspaper clippings. Walked 3 minutes down the road and checked into the Golden Apple for two nights. Great little room, modern, AC, flatscreen TV. But even in a room and hotel like this, it's still India: killed the biggest cockroach I've ever seen in my bathroom (so big I thought it was a rat when it first scurried by). When I came back to my room later in the afternoon, I noticed lots of ants on the bathroom floor. That night, there were even more, and I then noticed they were going to and from the garbage bin, where I had put the dead cockroach. Well, poor thing had no limbs left. I picked up what remained of its torso, and flushed it down the toilet. Ant problem solved. 

Back to earlier that day... was in my room for a little cool-down mid-aft, and was reading about the Mother House (Mother Teresa) in my guidebook. It said there were volunteer orientation sessions every Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 3pm. It was Friday 2:30. Grabbed my purse, asked reception how to get there, and quickly walked over (20 min). I was overcome with strong emotions the moment I walked through the entrance. I immediately felt choked up and had to hold back tears the whole time I was inside. There's definitely a powerful energy in there. It's where Mother Teresa lived while she was in Calcutta, and it's where she is buried. There's a separate room with her tomb. The woman in charge of volunteering (clad in a blue and white robe, like all the other sisters there) gathered the few of us who were interested, and walked us 5 minutes down the road to the orphanage area, where the orientation takes place (I thought I was a fast walker, but man did that woman ever bolt it down the street!). Hugh, from Ireland, who has been volunteering for 3 months, did the English group orientation (it was just myself and a girl from Texas and one from South Africa - he said were lucky to have individual attention, as last month there were dozens at each session). We first filled out a little information card, then he had us read 2 pages of info on the Mother House and etiquette while there, and 2 pages on Sudder Street beggars. Sudder street is the main backpacker hub in Kolkata, a short road where all three of my accommodations here are located. The info was about how important it was not to encourage the beggars by giving them money or buying sweets for the kids. Begging here is a mafia-like business (as those who saw Slumdog Millionaire are aware), and organizations are doing everything they can to reduce it. I always feel a pinch of guilt walking by beggars and not giving anything, but as they say, inaction is action. By not giving, we are helping bring the sick business to an end. Instead, to help, time or money can be donated to legitimate organizations around the city. So, I've decided to volunteer Monday-Friday next week. Hugh told us about "A day in the life of a volunteer", then described the different centers around the city that are run by the Sisters of Charity (Mother Teresa), and asked us to choose where we'd like to be placed. As simple as that! I will be doing the morning shift (8-12) at Shishu Bhavan, the orphanage for mentally and physically handicapped children, then the afternoon shift (3-6) at Khaligat, home for the dying and destitute. Yeah, pretty intense. Not sure exactly what I've gotten myself into, but it should be quite an experience. Every day, volunteers meet at 5:45am for mass from 6-7 (open to all religions - and non-religious), followed by breakfast at 7, then we meet with our leader who walks us (or bus) to whichever center we have chosen to work at. More about all that when I write on Monday evening!

Stopped at Kathleen's Confectionary on my way home for mango ice-cream and a box of pastries to bring back to my room. Relaxed and cooled off for a bit before heading out for dinner. Went back to Blue Sky Cafe, where I had my first Kolkata breakfast, and saw the South African girl from the volunteer center. She was sitting alone, so I joined her and we chatted over dinner. Chatted with a Brit guy next to us as well, who told us about the cricket game he was going to see tonight. After he raved about it (he had been to another game before) and took off, Marianka and I excitedly decided we would also go! Quickly finished our dinner, asked for directions, and made our way to Eden Gardens (20min walk). Got tickets in the Rs.500 ($10) section (tickets vary from 350-1500/7-30... though in Bangalore, with Jim and Blaire, we saw tickets going for about $1000!) and walked to the stadium as we heard chearing from the fans (it was 9ish, game had started at 8 and would end around 11:30). Wow! What a stadium! Huge floodlights made it very bright, nice green circular field, and thousands of fans in the pretty packed stadium. What a thrill to be there! The Kolkata Knight Riders were playing the Rajastan Royals. We had bought KKR head bands to wear! We were the only white people in sight (sitting beside 3 other blonde girls from Ireland, who happened to have bought their tickets just ahead of us in line, so our seats were together). Marianka, being from South Africa, knew all about cricket and was able to explan the game to us, making it much more fun to watch. By the end of the game, I had a pretty good idea of what was going on, and knew when to cheer and get excited about certain plays. And we won! Wonderful night. Walked home with the huge crowd from the stadium (cops do a good job of controling traffic here), and got back to my room at midnight. A little flat-screen HD TV before sleep, and awake at 9 this morning.

A little more sight-seeing this weekend before starting my work on Monday.

Loving Calcutta, its scruff, its history, its people, its charm :) 

City of Joy

I'm back in full force in Calcutta, City of Joy! Health, appetite and zest are all back :) 

The train journey was long but quite good. Got a tuk-tuk from Adora Hotel to the train station, with a very friendly driver who chatted with me all the way, and wished me happy travels. (He looked wide-eyed at the size of my bags when I got in and asked how long I was here for - 5 months. He said I had too much luggage. He's right.) Waited about half an hour before getting onto my first rain, a 5 hour AC chair car to Chennai. There was a mix-up on my ticket about my seat# being a window-seat, which caused a bit of an issue, and I spent most of the ride in the aisle seat. But the bigger problem was the cockroaches. Tiny, small, and not-so-small bugs infested the train. They were on the floor, on the walls, and worst of all, on the seats. I tried not let it bother me too much, as no one else seemed to even notice (I was yet again the only westerner on the train), but the little creatures were on my mind a lot of the way. I had to shoo a few away as they crawled near me on my seat, and occasionally step on one that got too close to my toes, but that's as bad as it got. Towards the end of the trip, I had a short chat with the lady next to me, who lived in Bengaluru and was going to visit her parents in Chennai. Left at 2:30pm, arrived shortly after 8. 

In Chennai, I had a 3+ hour wait until my next train to Kolkata at 11:40pm. The inside of the station reminded me a little of the inside of Victoria Station in Mumbai. It's the type of scene and station you would see in movies about India. Hot, sticky, smelly, packed, seats and floor full and covered with waiting passengers. I walked around a little, trying to find a decent spot to settle down for 3 hours with all my stuff. Options and space were very limited. And then, I saw a sign: pre-paid AC waiting room. I try to travel pretty modestly, but this was a little luxury I was happy to spoil myself with. Just $1.50 for the 3 hour wait in a cool room with comfortable (and available) seats. Settled in with a smile (another super-friendly male worker at the money desk) and continued reading Life of Pi, which I had started in Bangalore. Haven't finished The God of Small Things yet, not because I don't like it (it's great!) but because it's really neat to read a book according its location. Chennai is near Pondicherry, which is where Life of Pi begins. Love it so far. Read, wandered, and ventured out of the room to snap a few pics of the station scenes, then headed to my train at 11:15.

Again, I was the only white person in sight. (They don't call it low season down here for nothing!) Walked past the lower class seat cars, where people were hanging out of windows and doors, seated one top of the other inside (but I have yet to see people ride on the roof); walked past the non AC sleeper cars (which Blaire and I had taken on our last journey); and finally, after about a 10 minute walk, made it to 3AC (third class AC sleeper - 2nd and 1st were still further down). Managed to haul my big bag up onto the upper bunk with the help of a neighboring man. Then, managed to create a comfortable arrangement for me and all my stuff on the little bed. There wasn't much possiblity of stretching my legs out straight to sleep, but it would have to do. I was on the side of the train that is only two bunks high, the beds parallel to the window (though only the lower bunk has window view). Once again, a very friendly working man: the train ticket checker was the first one I've had who took a few seconds of his time to ask me where I was from and whether I liked India. "I love it!" He smiled. Read for a while as people settled in and the train made its way north. A bit of yoga music before bed, then a decent sleep given the conditions.

Fell asleep a around 1am, and managed to stay in bed till 9:30 (with a few expected wake-ups, of course). Well, I would actually be staying in bed all day, but sitting up and going for the occasional pee or leg stretch or glimpse out the open door between train cars. Read, wrote, and listened to music. Peered over at the laptop on which the family across and below watched movies in the afternoon. Stopped the train sellers for a few chais and small snacks. Brushed my teeth at the common sink as I watched a little boy stand and pee all over the bathroom floor. Then I went in, closed the door, stepped on his pee (didn't have much of a choice), and tried to aim a little better than he did. I must say, I've become quite a pro at these train squat toilets. Then I got my blanket out for night #2. (The AC is pretty intense, but I'm definitely not about to complain about the cold!) AC sleeper cars provide pillow, sheets and a blanket, the first two which I was happy to use, but their blanket was far too thick and heavy. Pulled out my orange Tibetan one from Rishikesh. Reading, yoga music, then the gentle swaying of the train to rock me to sleep. 

We were scheduled to arrive at 5am, and at 4:44 I was awakened by voices, light, and shuffling. Rubbed my eyes, had a little stretch, and packed away my few things. At 5:15, the train was stopped at Howrah Station, Kolkata. I got out and walked along the platform from the back to the front of train, through the station and out the front to the pre-paid taxi booth. Got myself a ticket for a $1.50 to Sudder Street. Walked to cab #572, and this time, a not-so-friendly male worker. He just watched and waited as I struggled to get my bags into the back seat. Most drivers have offered to help (and sometimes got a good laugh at size and weight my bags), and to them I would leave a tip. This one, nope. He didn't so much as say hello. Got a great view of Howrah station as we pulled away, an enormous, beautiful, bright red brick building. Then, on the way, I watched the sun rise over the city, as street vendors set up their stalls or caught their last few moments of sidewalk sleep. I loved it already.  (Was that only this morning? Feels like ages ago.) When we got to Sudder street, the driver asked me for the name of my hotel. Fairlawn. He looked unsure, so I kept my eyes peeled. A minute later, I saw it, but he didn't stop. Had to tell him to back up. Got my bags out alone again, thanked him, and walked to reception. 

Fairlawn (www.fairlawnhotel.com) is likely to be priciest I place I stay on this trip (besides the places Jim treated us to), but after two nights on a train, I thought I'd spoil myself with a nice room (about 55 bucks for the night). And it's a place full of history and character, run by an excentric-looking, ageing British woman and her daughter (photos of Brit royalty everywhere - Diana, Charles, William&Kate). The woman initially ran it with her husband, whom she met here in Calcutta, at the Fairlawn, but he passed away several years ago. It's a quirky, charming place, that has attracted writers, jounalists, musicians and movie stars. The decor is anything but modern, with old pieces hap-hazardly strewn about. The walls have old photos and newspaper clippings, and feminist cartoon posters. I arrived at 6am, so of course, my room was not available yet. I put my bags into storage and sat in the open garden terrace to write and read some protest art magazines that were lying around. Walked to the corner of the street for breakfast at Blue Sky Cafe, recommended in my travel book. Had a nice ice-coffee and french toast. Walked around a little, checking other lodgings along the street (since I couldn't afford the Fairlawn for more than one night). Gradual downgrade to the $20 Golden Apple Boutique Hotel (though nothing like the Purple Lotus Boutique Hotel Jim took us to in Bangalore: http://www.purplelotus.in/main.html) for 2 nights, then a week at Galaxy Guesthouse, a gem of a budget place ($7), with only 6 rooms, run by a super friendly Sikh man. Productive walk with great bookings.

Back at Fairlawn I had about another hour to wait before check-in. I sat back down and read The Bengal Post. On the front page was news of yesterday's earthquake in Indonesia. Apparently, a beach in Chennai was evacuated, and the front desk man asked me if I had felt anything, but I didn't. I was already a little further up the coast by then. There was also news of an Indian father beating his 3-month-old daughter to death because he wanted a boy. Unfortunately, this isn't all that uncommon here. As much as I love India, it still holds beliefs and customs that make me cringe. Another article spoke of the ongoing rivalry between India and Pakistan: "One in 10 children who doesn't go to school lives in Pakistan. One in 3 children in the world who is malnourished lives in India. And these countries insist on sending young men to a frontline where there is no war, where there is nothing to fight over, and where 4,000 soldiers have died, mostly because it's just too cold." Then there were a couple on censorship, Gunter Grass poetry banned in Israel, and Karl Marx removed from the curriculum of Indian high school education. So there's what's up in this area of the world.

I watched as Mrs. Violet Smith, the plump, red-haired owner of Fairlawn, had her breakfast in the open restaurant and was then helped out to the terrace to her reserved cushioned chair to read her newspaper with a magnifying glass - reminded me of Grand-Maman, minus the fans :) 

At 10am, checked into my cold, huge room. Again, all old pieces that looked as if they could be found in your grandparents' home. Had a nice shower and went back out into the streets for lunch and to book my trains for Varanasi and Delhi. Had planned to stop at several other places along the way, but decided to minimize travel and transportation because of all my luggage. So I'll be skipping Darjeeling, Bodhgaya, Allahabad and Khajuraho, keeping them all for one of my next trips to India. I decided to stay longer than planned in Calcutta since I had a good feeling about it as soon as I got here. Will explore the tourist sights this weekend, then hopefully do some volunteer work at the Mother Teresa orphanage all of next week. Saturday the 21st, I leave for the mystical, magical city of Varanasi, and after a week there, it's back to where I started, Delhi.

I'm delighted to state that the weather here is quite pleasant. Sure, it's hot, but not the intense heat I had braced myself for. Just 34 degrees. Only minor drippage. No problem! And I've seen a bunch of young travelers already - a nice change from Bangalore -  including a girl from Saskatoon when I was reserving my week at Galaxy.

Today's closing quote is one of my favorites from Life of Pi so far:

"I described Mr. Kumar's place as a hovel. Yet no mosque, church or temple ever felt so sacred to me. I sometimes came out of that bakery feeling heavy with glory. I would climb onto my bicycle and pedal that glory through the air... The feeling, a paradoxical mix of pulsing energy and profound peace, was intense and blissful."