As much as I adore this city, I seem to be severely allergic to it. For the past 48 hours, there has been a steady stream of watery snot running out of my right nostril, uncontrollable tears rolling down my cheeks from the outer corners of my puffy eyes, and frequent fits of 6-8 sneezes in a row. Day and night. (Aaaa-aa-choo!) This morning seems to be a bit better, let's hope that's end of it.
I'm not sure what it is about March and writing, but my pen has serious diarrhea. In three days, I've filled as many notebook pages as the last 50 days combined! Hence the lengthy blog posts. And those don't ever cover the half of it! Not even my crazy travel day from Haridwar to Mumbai, or the missing details and anecdotes from Rishikesh. (Actually, to save you and I both some time and sanity, I will be keeping the full description of that day and the missing details for my book... stay tuned! Unless, of course, there's a rainy afternoon where I'm sick and have nothing else to do... or if I decide I really can't stand Blaire and need an excuse to get away for a few hours... kidding, kidding... she's incredible!) So, I told Blaire over breakfast this morning that I was determined to write a quick, point form post today. If I went into my usual detail about the past 2 days in Bombay, this one post would turn into a novella.
Come on, Erika. You can do this. Point form. And... go!
Saturday, March 3:
-Out and about at 8am, breakfast at Leopold's, walk along the waterfront to the Gateway of India and the Taj Mahal Hotel (2nd time for me, first for Blaire). This time, went closer to both, even entering the lobby of the Taj (after passing through security and bag scan to get in). Think the starting price for a basic room here is $500/night. Blaire asked why I hadn't reserved us a room here.
-Back to room, where Blaire napped for a bit, while I wrote and organized. When she woke, we headed out to the ferry at Nariman point (just down the road, at the Gateway) for the hour-long ride to Elephanta Island. Impressive caves, with massive basalt columns, carvings and worship statues. Awesome monkey-watching outside, including one picking away at another's butt-hole, looking for tasty treats. Not so awesome watching in horror as a dog pranced along the road, his teeth sunk into a baby monkey's neck, its body swaying from side-to-side below. Ferry back, great views as we approached the city.
-Back to room, quick break, then out for internet and diner dinner.
-Attempted good night's sleep, not achieved by either of us.
Sunday, March 4:
-Out and about at 8. (Seriously, jet-lag means nothing to this girl. It's taking all I've got to keep up with her!) Amazingly scrumptious breakfast at a guidebook recommended bakery up the street. We both opted for the same thing: French toast with brown butter apples, a dollop of mascarpone, flaked almonds and a maple glaze. It was even better than it sounds!
-Fiat cab to Victoria Terminus to book our train to Goa. One of the most beautiful buildings I've ever seen. Sea of people and trains in the old/modern mixed interior. Monday's train was full, settled on Tuesday (which we are now both thrilled about, given the opportunity that has arisen for tonight... again, everything happening for a reason, and things falling beautifully into place). Fiat cab to Dharavi slum, the biggest in Asia, 2nd only to Kibera slum in Nairobi, Kenya. Weren't sure what to expect when we got dropped off. Didn't manage to book the slum tour we intended to take, and didn't know if we could even go on our own, or whether it was safe. After steeping out of the cab, it took no time to realize that Dharavi is home to the kindest, friendliest, happiest people in India, with the most beautiful and genuine smiles stretching ear to ear. Never have I felt more welcomed, openly greeted, heart-warmed. And they didn't ask for anything. Walking through the sprawling maze of narrow alleyways, with Namaste Jees to the elders and photo ops with the excited children, Blaire and I could not have felt happier or safer. One of my favorite places on earth.
-Then, another Fiat to the nearby Juhu district, the poshest place in town. Glamorous designer stores line the tidy streets, huge, multi-storied shiny shopping malls are guarded by security at every door, all this just a few steps away from sky high "projects/ghetto" concrete buildings, and low to the ground shacks (each tin or plastic roof dotted with a satellite dish, of course). First, we walked along Juhu beach, stepping into the ocean for the first time, stopping for animated chats with local kids playing cricket on the sand, and then we tuk-tuked back into central Juhu for our first Bollywood movie.
-Hour long cab ride back home, through the ever fascinating city streets, both of us collapsing on our beds as soon we reached our room. Much needed rest, then out for internet and canteen dinner around 10pm.
Today (including tonight's very special event) will blogged about tomorrow, from Goa!
To end my last post from magical Mumbai, I want to leave you with the description of this city from Blaire's guidebook, which I love and is so, so true:
Mumbai is beautiful mess, full of dreamers and hard-laborers, actors and gangsters, stray dogs and exotic birds, artists and servants, fisherfolk and crorepatis (millionaires) and many, many other people.
Indeed, like much of the rest of India, it is a city of stark contrasts. Love it or hate it. I choose love.
(Ok, so some points were not so point-like, but I think I did pretty good! Yet, as I re-read, it seems scandalous to have left out so much.)
I'm not sure what it is about March and writing, but my pen has serious diarrhea. In three days, I've filled as many notebook pages as the last 50 days combined! Hence the lengthy blog posts. And those don't ever cover the half of it! Not even my crazy travel day from Haridwar to Mumbai, or the missing details and anecdotes from Rishikesh. (Actually, to save you and I both some time and sanity, I will be keeping the full description of that day and the missing details for my book... stay tuned! Unless, of course, there's a rainy afternoon where I'm sick and have nothing else to do... or if I decide I really can't stand Blaire and need an excuse to get away for a few hours... kidding, kidding... she's incredible!) So, I told Blaire over breakfast this morning that I was determined to write a quick, point form post today. If I went into my usual detail about the past 2 days in Bombay, this one post would turn into a novella.
Come on, Erika. You can do this. Point form. And... go!
Saturday, March 3:
-Out and about at 8am, breakfast at Leopold's, walk along the waterfront to the Gateway of India and the Taj Mahal Hotel (2nd time for me, first for Blaire). This time, went closer to both, even entering the lobby of the Taj (after passing through security and bag scan to get in). Think the starting price for a basic room here is $500/night. Blaire asked why I hadn't reserved us a room here.
-Back to room, where Blaire napped for a bit, while I wrote and organized. When she woke, we headed out to the ferry at Nariman point (just down the road, at the Gateway) for the hour-long ride to Elephanta Island. Impressive caves, with massive basalt columns, carvings and worship statues. Awesome monkey-watching outside, including one picking away at another's butt-hole, looking for tasty treats. Not so awesome watching in horror as a dog pranced along the road, his teeth sunk into a baby monkey's neck, its body swaying from side-to-side below. Ferry back, great views as we approached the city.
-Back to room, quick break, then out for internet and diner dinner.
-Attempted good night's sleep, not achieved by either of us.
Sunday, March 4:
-Out and about at 8. (Seriously, jet-lag means nothing to this girl. It's taking all I've got to keep up with her!) Amazingly scrumptious breakfast at a guidebook recommended bakery up the street. We both opted for the same thing: French toast with brown butter apples, a dollop of mascarpone, flaked almonds and a maple glaze. It was even better than it sounds!
-Fiat cab to Victoria Terminus to book our train to Goa. One of the most beautiful buildings I've ever seen. Sea of people and trains in the old/modern mixed interior. Monday's train was full, settled on Tuesday (which we are now both thrilled about, given the opportunity that has arisen for tonight... again, everything happening for a reason, and things falling beautifully into place). Fiat cab to Dharavi slum, the biggest in Asia, 2nd only to Kibera slum in Nairobi, Kenya. Weren't sure what to expect when we got dropped off. Didn't manage to book the slum tour we intended to take, and didn't know if we could even go on our own, or whether it was safe. After steeping out of the cab, it took no time to realize that Dharavi is home to the kindest, friendliest, happiest people in India, with the most beautiful and genuine smiles stretching ear to ear. Never have I felt more welcomed, openly greeted, heart-warmed. And they didn't ask for anything. Walking through the sprawling maze of narrow alleyways, with Namaste Jees to the elders and photo ops with the excited children, Blaire and I could not have felt happier or safer. One of my favorite places on earth.
-Then, another Fiat to the nearby Juhu district, the poshest place in town. Glamorous designer stores line the tidy streets, huge, multi-storied shiny shopping malls are guarded by security at every door, all this just a few steps away from sky high "projects/ghetto" concrete buildings, and low to the ground shacks (each tin or plastic roof dotted with a satellite dish, of course). First, we walked along Juhu beach, stepping into the ocean for the first time, stopping for animated chats with local kids playing cricket on the sand, and then we tuk-tuked back into central Juhu for our first Bollywood movie.
-Hour long cab ride back home, through the ever fascinating city streets, both of us collapsing on our beds as soon we reached our room. Much needed rest, then out for internet and canteen dinner around 10pm.
Today (including tonight's very special event) will blogged about tomorrow, from Goa!
To end my last post from magical Mumbai, I want to leave you with the description of this city from Blaire's guidebook, which I love and is so, so true:
Mumbai is beautiful mess, full of dreamers and hard-laborers, actors and gangsters, stray dogs and exotic birds, artists and servants, fisherfolk and crorepatis (millionaires) and many, many other people.
Indeed, like much of the rest of India, it is a city of stark contrasts. Love it or hate it. I choose love.
(Ok, so some points were not so point-like, but I think I did pretty good! Yet, as I re-read, it seems scandalous to have left out so much.)
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