Didn't sleep in till 2 today, and stomach feeling a bit better, so I was able to explore my surroundings a little. This area of Bangalore (near all the transport hubs - main train station, 2 bus stations) is by far the busiest and dirtiest place I've been in India. Even in the nice area where Jim, Blaire and I were staying, we were surprised that it wasn't more westernized, and that there weren't more westerners. Haven't seen a single one in this area, and I can count on one hand how many we saw in the Cubbon Park area. Bangalore is India's 3rd most populous city and the main hub for software production and IT exports. Hence our expectations of westernization.
I just moved a couple minutes down the street to a slightly nicer room for half the price of the other one. (First accommodation I've had with Indian style toilet. But it's a flush Indian: flat urinal-style ceramic "hole" with a tank and flush on the wall above it.) Two nights at this one before I catch my train to Chennai then Kolkatta on Tuesday (40 hour journey!).
So, time to backtrack... I left off in Fort Kochin, where we were staying at Jim's favorite hotel of the trip, the Old Lighthouse Hotel. On March 30th, our new driver, James (he's Indian, but his name was James Emmanuel, his daughter is Theresa, and his two sons... I forget, but more Christian names) picked us up in a nice Toyota van at 10:30am to drive us to Thekaddy (from where we could access the Periyar Wildlife Preserve). We arrived at 3:30pm, after a beautiful but nauseating drive. A couple hours of crazy city driving (Jim liked to close his eyes for these parts, and joked about having to change his underwear when we'd arrive somewhere), were followed by windy, bumpy (potholes bigger than Montreal's in the spring) mountain roads, lined with spectacular homes (more ornate than women's saris at weddings), and with views of beautiful green tea plantations. The mountains made me nostalgic about Rishikesh.
Felt very nauseous when James dropped us off at the Elephant Court (http://www.theelephantcourt.com/). Everytime we check in to a new place, I don't think it can get any better than the last, and it always does. We were greeted with fresh pink fruit juice, flower garlands and a candle-burning/forehead dotting blessing. Our rooms and the whole place were incredible. Relaxed in our rooms for a bit until our nausea was settled, then James drove us into town where for a Kathakali (traditional Kerala dance) performance. We had tried to see one in Kochi, but they weren't on because it was low season. Glad we caught one here! It was like nothing I've ever seen before. The costumes are spectacular (one actor was being dressed on stage before the show started, which was an impressive process to watch) and the performance was so incredibly unique. There are only small movements and no talking, most of the show being in the actors' facial expressions. They can move their faces in such bizarre and intense ways, which would be difficult to describe. Back home for a great sleep in our great room.
The next morning, James picked us up at 8:30 to take us to Periyar, where we got onto a tour boat that brought us through beautiful rivers and scenery (the only place in India I'd been so far where there were no people - except on the boat, which was packed full, us three being the only westerners). Tree trunks were coming out of the river, creating stunning reflections, and along the way we saw a mother elephant with her two children, as well as herd of buffalo and beautiful birds perched atop the tree trunks.
James then drove us to an ayurvedic organic spice farm, where we were led through a fascinating variety of medicinal plants by a hilarious guide. Bought spices and homemade pistachio chocolate (yum!) on the way out. Next stop was the elephant park. Jim and I had both ridden elephants in the past, and both felt the same way about it: worst experience of our lives! But Blaire is obsessed with the big animals and wouldn't let us leave without going for a ride (and she wouldn't go alone). So Jim and I sucked it up and straddled the elephant behind Blaire, letting her ride shotgun. Jim and I still didn't love the ride, but the smiles and laughter that came from Blaire made it all worth it. She had the time of her life. (When she first arrived in India, she told me there were two things she absolutely wanted to do: go to a wedding and see an elephant. Well, she worked at a wedding and rode an elephant. Not bad.)
Back to Elephant Court for lunch, pool, relaxation. That night we gave James a break and walked into town, where I found more delicious homemade chocolate to bring as a snack as we went back to the same performance area as last night, but this time for some traditional Keralan martial arts. All three of us agreed it was our favorite show yet. We were seated in elevated stands, around a gladiator-like pit below. A team of five incredible guys performed impressive and dangerous stunts, fighting with knives, ropes, and jumping through fire rings. What a show! Walked home, got our our Kingfisher beers and cards out, and the three of us had a great night of fun on Blaire and I's lovely front patio.
On April 1st, we packed, used the complimentary business center for internet, and had our last breakfast brunch at Elephant Court (all the great food and buffets have added a few pounds onto me!). Jim got up bright and early that morning to go on another Periyar boat ride, hoping to see more wildlife on the 7am boat than the 9:30 one. No luck, said he saw even less. But the sun's lighting was apparently spectacular for photos at that time. James picked us up at 11am for another long and nauseating drive down to Varkala, a beach town in southern Kerala.
More about that in the next post tomorrow.
I just moved a couple minutes down the street to a slightly nicer room for half the price of the other one. (First accommodation I've had with Indian style toilet. But it's a flush Indian: flat urinal-style ceramic "hole" with a tank and flush on the wall above it.) Two nights at this one before I catch my train to Chennai then Kolkatta on Tuesday (40 hour journey!).
So, time to backtrack... I left off in Fort Kochin, where we were staying at Jim's favorite hotel of the trip, the Old Lighthouse Hotel. On March 30th, our new driver, James (he's Indian, but his name was James Emmanuel, his daughter is Theresa, and his two sons... I forget, but more Christian names) picked us up in a nice Toyota van at 10:30am to drive us to Thekaddy (from where we could access the Periyar Wildlife Preserve). We arrived at 3:30pm, after a beautiful but nauseating drive. A couple hours of crazy city driving (Jim liked to close his eyes for these parts, and joked about having to change his underwear when we'd arrive somewhere), were followed by windy, bumpy (potholes bigger than Montreal's in the spring) mountain roads, lined with spectacular homes (more ornate than women's saris at weddings), and with views of beautiful green tea plantations. The mountains made me nostalgic about Rishikesh.
Felt very nauseous when James dropped us off at the Elephant Court (http://www.theelephantcourt.com/). Everytime we check in to a new place, I don't think it can get any better than the last, and it always does. We were greeted with fresh pink fruit juice, flower garlands and a candle-burning/forehead dotting blessing. Our rooms and the whole place were incredible. Relaxed in our rooms for a bit until our nausea was settled, then James drove us into town where for a Kathakali (traditional Kerala dance) performance. We had tried to see one in Kochi, but they weren't on because it was low season. Glad we caught one here! It was like nothing I've ever seen before. The costumes are spectacular (one actor was being dressed on stage before the show started, which was an impressive process to watch) and the performance was so incredibly unique. There are only small movements and no talking, most of the show being in the actors' facial expressions. They can move their faces in such bizarre and intense ways, which would be difficult to describe. Back home for a great sleep in our great room.
The next morning, James picked us up at 8:30 to take us to Periyar, where we got onto a tour boat that brought us through beautiful rivers and scenery (the only place in India I'd been so far where there were no people - except on the boat, which was packed full, us three being the only westerners). Tree trunks were coming out of the river, creating stunning reflections, and along the way we saw a mother elephant with her two children, as well as herd of buffalo and beautiful birds perched atop the tree trunks.
James then drove us to an ayurvedic organic spice farm, where we were led through a fascinating variety of medicinal plants by a hilarious guide. Bought spices and homemade pistachio chocolate (yum!) on the way out. Next stop was the elephant park. Jim and I had both ridden elephants in the past, and both felt the same way about it: worst experience of our lives! But Blaire is obsessed with the big animals and wouldn't let us leave without going for a ride (and she wouldn't go alone). So Jim and I sucked it up and straddled the elephant behind Blaire, letting her ride shotgun. Jim and I still didn't love the ride, but the smiles and laughter that came from Blaire made it all worth it. She had the time of her life. (When she first arrived in India, she told me there were two things she absolutely wanted to do: go to a wedding and see an elephant. Well, she worked at a wedding and rode an elephant. Not bad.)
Back to Elephant Court for lunch, pool, relaxation. That night we gave James a break and walked into town, where I found more delicious homemade chocolate to bring as a snack as we went back to the same performance area as last night, but this time for some traditional Keralan martial arts. All three of us agreed it was our favorite show yet. We were seated in elevated stands, around a gladiator-like pit below. A team of five incredible guys performed impressive and dangerous stunts, fighting with knives, ropes, and jumping through fire rings. What a show! Walked home, got our our Kingfisher beers and cards out, and the three of us had a great night of fun on Blaire and I's lovely front patio.
On April 1st, we packed, used the complimentary business center for internet, and had our last breakfast brunch at Elephant Court (all the great food and buffets have added a few pounds onto me!). Jim got up bright and early that morning to go on another Periyar boat ride, hoping to see more wildlife on the 7am boat than the 9:30 one. No luck, said he saw even less. But the sun's lighting was apparently spectacular for photos at that time. James picked us up at 11am for another long and nauseating drive down to Varkala, a beach town in southern Kerala.
More about that in the next post tomorrow.
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